CHAPTER
IV
"JUMPING
OFF"
The
reader need not be told that John Bull never leaves home
without encumbering himself with the greatest possible load
of luggage. Our companions were no exception to the rule.
They had a wagon drawn by six mules and crammed with provisions
for six months, besides ammunition enough for a regiment;
spare rifles and fowling-pieces, ropes and harness; personal
baggage, and a miscellaneous assortment of articles, which
produced infinite embarrassment on the journey. They had
also decorated their persons with telescopes and portable
compasses, and carried English double-barreled rifles of
sixteen to the pound caliber, slung to their saddles in
dragoon fashion.
By
sunrise on the 23d of May we had breakfasted; the tents
were leveled, the animals saddled and harnessed, and all
was prepared. "Avance donc! get up!" cried Delorier
from his seat in front of the cart. Wright, our friend's
muleteer, after some swearing and lashing, got his insubordinate
train in motion, and then the whole party filed from the
ground. Thus we bade a long adieu to bed and board, and
the principles of Blackstone's Commentaries. The day was
a most auspicious one; and yet Shaw and I felt certain misgivings,
which in the sequel proved but too well founded. We had
just learned that though R. had taken it upon him to adopt
this course without consulting us, not a single man in the
party was acquainted with it; and the absurdity of our friend's
high-handed measure very soon became manifest. His plan
was to strike the trail of several companies of dragoons,
who last summer had made an expedition under Colonel Kearny
to Fort Laramie, and by this means to reach the grand trail
of the Oregon emigrants up the Platte.
We
rode for an hour or two when a familiar cluster of buildings
appeared on a little hill. "Hallo!" shouted the
Kickapoo trader from over his fence. "Where are you
going?" A few rather emphatic exclamations might have
been heard among us, when we found that we had gone miles
out of our way, and were not advanced an inch toward the
Rocky Mountains. So we turned in the direction the trader
indicated, and with the sun for a guide, began to trace
a "bee line" across the prairies. We struggled
through copses and lines of wood; we waded brooks and pools
of water; we traversed prairies as green as an emerald,
expanding before us for mile after mile; wider and more
wild than the wastes Mazeppa rode over:
"Man
nor brute, Nor dint of hoof, nor print of foot, Lay in the
wild luxuriant soil; No sign of travel; none of toil; The
very air was mute."
Riding
in advance, we passed over one of these great plains; we
looked back and saw the line of scattered horsemen stretching
for a mile or more; and far in the rear against the horizon,
the white wagons creeping slowly along. "Here we are
at last!" shouted the captain. And in truth we had
struck upon the traces of a large body of horse. We turned
joyfully and followed this new course, with tempers somewhat
improved; and toward sunset encamped on a high swell of
the prairie, at the foot of which a lazy stream soaked along
through clumps of rank grass. It was getting dark. We turned
the horses loose to feed. "Drive down the tent-pickets
hard," said Henry Chatillon, "it is going to blow."
We did so, and secured the tent as well as we could; for
the sky had changed totally, and a fresh damp smell in the
wind warned us that a stormy night was likely to succeed
the hot clear day. The prairie also wore a new aspect, and
its vast swells had grown black and somber under the shadow
of the clouds. The thunder soon began to growl at a distance.
Picketing and hobbling the horses among the rich grass at
the foot of the slope, where we encamped, we gained a shelter
just as the rain began to fall; and sat at the opening of
the tent, watching the proceedings of the captain. In defiance
of the rain he was stalking among the horses, wrapped in
an old Scotch plaid. An extreme solicitude tormented him,
lest some of his favorites should escape, or some accident
should befall them; and he cast an anxious eye toward three
wolves who were sneaking along over the dreary surface of
the plain, as if he dreaded some hostile demonstration on
their part.
On
the next morning we had gone but a mile or two, when we
came to an extensive belt of woods, through the midst of
which ran a stream, wide, deep, and of an appearance particularly
muddy and treacherous. Delorier was in advance with his
cart; he jerked his pipe from his mouth, lashed his mules,
and poured forth a volley of Canadian ejaculations. In plunged
the cart, but midway it stuck fast. Delorier leaped out
knee-deep in water, and by dint of sacres and a vigorous
application of the whip, he urged the mules out of the slough.
Then approached the long team and heavy wagon of our friends;
but it paused on the brink.
"Now
my advice is--" began the captain, who had been anxiously
contemplating the muddy gulf.
"Drive
on!" cried R.
But
Wright, the muleteer, apparently had not as yet decided
the point in his own mind; and he sat still in his seat
on one of the shaft- mules, whistling in a low contemplative
strain to himself.
"My
advice is," resumed the captain, "that we unload;
for I'll bet any man five pounds that if we try to go through,
we shall stick fast."
"By
the powers, we shall stick fast!" echoed Jack, the
captain's brother, shaking his large head with an air of
firm conviction.
"Drive
on! drive on!" cried R. petulantly.
"Well,"
observed the captain, turning to us as we sat looking on,
much edified by this by-play among our confederates, "I
can only give my advice and if people won't be reasonable,
why, they won't; that's all!"
Meanwhile
Wright had apparently made up his mind; for he suddenly
began to shout forth a volley of oaths and curses, that,
compared with the French imprecations of Delorier, sounded
like the roaring of heavy cannon after the popping and sputtering
of a bunch of Chinese crackers. At the same time he discharged
a shower of blows upon his mules, who hastily dived into
the mud and drew the wagon lumbering after them. For a moment
the issue was dubious. Wright writhed about in his saddle,
and swore and lashed like a madman; but who can count on
a team of half-broken mules? At the most critical point,
when all should have been harmony and combined effort, the
perverse brutes fell into lamentable disorder, and huddled
together in confusion on the farther bank. There was the
wagon up to the hub in mud, and visibly settling every instant.
There was nothing for it but to unload; then to dig away
the mud from before the wheels with a spade, and lay a causeway
of bushes and branches. This agreeable labor accomplished,
the wagon at last emerged; but if I mention that some interruption
of this sort occurred at least four or five times a day
for a fortnight, the reader will understand that our progress
toward the Platte was not without its obstacles.
We
traveled six or seven miles farther, and "nooned"
near a brook. On the point of resuming our journey, when
the horses were all driven down to water, my homesick charger,
Pontiac, made a sudden leap across, and set off at a round
trot for the settlements. I mounted my remaining horse,
and started in pursuit. Making a circuit, I headed the runaway,
hoping to drive him back to camp; but he instantly broke
into a gallop, made a wide tour on the prairie, and got
past me again. I tried this plan repeatedly, with the same
result; Pontiac was evidently disgusted with the prairie;
so I abandoned it, and tried another, trotting along gently
behind him, in hopes that I might quietly get near enough
to seize the trail-rope which was fastened to his neck,
and dragged about a dozen feet behind him. The chase grew
interesting. For mile after mile I followed the rascal,
with the utmost care not to alarm him, and gradually got
nearer, until at length old Hendrick's nose was fairly brushed
by the whisking tail of the unsuspecting Pontiac. Without
drawing rein, I slid softly to the ground; but my long heavy
rifle encumbered me, and the low sound it made in striking
the horn of the saddle startled him; he pricked up his ears,
and sprang off at a run. "My friend," thought
I, remounting, "do that again, and I will shoot you!"
Fort
Leavenworth was about forty miles distant, and thither I
determined to follow him. I made up my mind to spend a solitary
and supperless night, and then set out again in the morning.
One hope, however, remained. The creek where the wagon had
stuck was just before us; Pontiac might be thirsty with
his run, and stop there to drink. I kept as near to him
as possible, taking every precaution not to alarm him again;
and the result proved as I had hoped: for he walked deliberately
among the trees, and stooped down to the water. I alighted,
dragged old Hendrick through the mud, and with a feeling
of infinite satisfaction picked up the slimy trail-rope
and twisted it three times round my hand. "Now let
me see you get away again!" I thought, as I remounted.
But Pontiac was exceedingly reluctant to turn back; Hendrick,
too, who had evidently flattered himself with vain hopes,
showed the utmost repugnance, and grumbled in a manner peculiar
to himself at being compelled to face about. A smart cut
of the whip restored his cheerfulness; and dragging the
recovered truant behind, I set out in search of the camp.
An hour or two elapsed, when, near sunset, I saw the tents,
standing on a rich swell of the prairie, beyond a line of
woods, while the bands of horses were feeding in a low meadow
close at hand. There sat Jack C., cross- legged, in the
sun, splicing a trail-rope, and the rest were lying on the
grass, smoking and telling stories. That night we enjoyed
a serenade from the wolves, more lively than any with which
they had yet favored us; and in the morning one of the musicians
appeared, not many rods from the tents, quietly seated among
the horses, looking at us with a pair of large gray eyes;
but perceiving a rifle leveled at him, he leaped up and
made off in hot haste.
I
pass by the following day or two of our journey, for nothing
occurred worthy of record. Should any one of my readers
ever be impelled to visit the prairies, and should he choose
the route of the Platte (the best, perhaps, that can be
adopted), I can assure him that he need not think to enter
at once upon the paradise of his imagination. A dreary preliminary,
protracted crossing of the threshold awaits him before he
finds himself fairly upon the verge of the "great American
desert," those barren wastes, the haunts of the buffalo
and the Indian, where the very shadow of civilization lies
a hundred leagues behind him. The intervening country, the
wide and fertile belt that extends for several hundred miles
beyond the extreme frontier, will probably answer tolerably
well to his preconceived ideas of the prairie; for this
it is from which picturesque tourists, painters, poets,
and novelists, who have seldom penetrated farther, have
derived their conceptions of the whole region. If he has
a painter's eye, he may find his period of probation not
wholly void of interest. The scenery, though tame, is graceful
and pleasing. Here are level plains, too wide for the eye
to measure green undulations, like motionless swells of
the ocean; abundance of streams, followed through all their
windings by lines of woods and scattered groves. But let
him be as enthusiastic as he may, he will find enough to
damp his ardor. His wagons will stick in the mud; his horses
will break loose; harness will give way, and axle-trees
prove unsound. His bed will be a soft one, consisting often
of black mud, of the richest consistency. As for food, he
must content himself with biscuit and salt provisions; for
strange as it may seem, this tract of country produces very
little game. As he advances, indeed, he will see, moldering
in the grass by his path, the vast antlers of the elk, and
farther on, the whitened skulls of the buffalo, once swarming
over this now deserted region. Perhaps, like us, he may
journey for a fortnight, and see not so much as the hoof-print
of a deer; in the spring, not even a prairie hen is to be
had.
Yet,
to compensate him for this unlooked-for deficiency of game,
he will find himself beset with "varmints" innumerable.
The wolves will entertain him with a concerto at night,
and skulk around him by day, just beyond rifle shot; his
horse will step into badger-holes; from every marsh and
mud puddle will arise the bellowing, croaking, and trilling
of legions of frogs, infinitely various in color, shape
and dimensions. A profusion of snakes will glide away from
under his horse's feet, or quietly visit him in his tent
at night; while the pertinacious humming of unnumbered mosquitoes
will banish sleep from his eyelids. When thirsty with a
long ride in the scorching sun over some boundless reach
of prairie, he comes at length to a pool of water, and alights
to drink, he discovers a troop of young tadpoles sporting
in the bottom of his cup. Add to this, that all the morning
the hot sun beats upon him with sultry, penetrating heat,
and that, with provoking regularity, at about four o'clock
in the afternoon, a thunderstorm rises and drenches him
to the skin. Such being the charms of this favored region,
the reader will easily conceive the extent of our gratification
at learning that for a week we had been journeying on the
wrong track! How this agreeable discovery was made I will
presently explain.
One
day, after a protracted morning's ride, we stopped to rest
at noon upon the open prairie. No trees were in sight; but
close at hand, a little dribbling brook was twisting from
side to side through a hollow; now forming holes of stagnant
water, and now gliding over the mud in a scarcely perceptible
current, among a growth of sickly bushes, and great clumps
of tall rank grass. The day was excessively hot and oppressive.
The horses and mules were rolling on the prairie to refresh
themselves, or feeding among the bushes in the hollow. We
had dined; and Delorier, puffing at his pipe, knelt on the
grass, scrubbing our service of tin plate. Shaw lay in the
shade, under the cart, to rest for a while, before the word
should be given to "catch up." Henry Chatillon,
before lying down, was looking about for signs of snakes,
the only living things that he feared, and uttering various
ejaculations of disgust, at finding several suspicious-
looking holes close to the cart. I sat leaning against the
wheel in a scanty strip of shade, making a pair of hobbles
to replace those which my contumacious steed Pontiac had
broken the night before. The camp of our friends, a rod
or two distant, presented the same scene of lazy tranquillity.
"Hallo!"
cried Henry, looking up from his inspection of the snake-
holes, "here comes the old captain!"
The
captain approached, and stood for a moment contemplating
us in silence.
"I
say, Parkman," he began, "look at Shaw there,
asleep under the cart, with the tar dripping off the hub
of the wheel on his shoulder!"
At
this Shaw got up, with his eyes half opened, and feeling
the part indicated, he found his hand glued fast to his
red flannel shirt.
"He'll
look well when he gets among the squaws, won't he?"
observed the captain, with a grin.
He
then crawled under the cart, and began to tell stories of
which his stock was inexhaustible. Yet every moment he would
glance nervously at the horses. At last he jumped up in
great excitement. "See that horse! There--that fellow
just walking over the hill! By Jove; he's off. It's your
big horse, Shaw; no it isn't, it's Jack's! Jack! Jack! hallo,
Jack!" Jack thus invoked, jumped up and stared vacantly
at us.
"Go
and catch your horse, if you don't want to lose him!"
roared the captain.
Jack
instantly set off at a run through the grass, his broad
pantaloons flapping about his feet. The captain gazed anxiously
till he saw that the horse was caught; then he sat down,
with a countenance of thoughtfulness and care.
"I
tell you what it is," he said, "this will never
do at all. We shall lose every horse in the band someday
or other, and then a pretty plight we should be in! Now
I am convinced that the only way for us is to have every
man in the camp stand horse-guard in rotation whenever we
stop. Supposing a hundred Pawnees should jump up out of
that ravine, all yelling and flapping their buffalo robes,
in the way they do? Why, in two minutes not a hoof would
be in sight." We reminded the captain that a hundred
Pawnees would probably demolish the horse-guard, if he were
to resist their depredations.
"At
any rate," pursued the captain, evading the point,
"our whole system is wrong; I'm convinced of it; it
is totally unmilitary. Why, the way we travel, strung out
over the prairie for a mile, an enemy might attack the foremost
men, and cut them off before the rest could come up."
"We
are not in an enemy's country, yet," said Shaw; "when
we are, we'll travel together."
"Then,"
said the captain, "we might be attacked in camp. We've
no sentinels; we camp in disorder; no precautions at all
to guard against surprise. My own convictions are that we
ought to camp in a hollow square, with the fires in the
center; and have sentinels, and a regular password appointed
for every night. Besides, there should be vedettes, riding
in advance, to find a place for the camp and give warning
of an enemy. These are my convictions. I don't want to dictate
to any man. I give advice to the best of my judgment, that's
all; and then let people do as they please."
We
intimated that perhaps it would be as well to postpone such
burdensome precautions until there should be some actual
need of them; but he shook his head dubiously. The captain's
sense of military propriety had been severely shocked by
what he considered the irregular proceedings of the party;
and this was not the first time he had expressed himself
upon the subject. But his convictions seldom produced any
practical results. In the present case, he contented himself,
as usual, with enlarging on the importance of his suggestions,
and wondering that they were not adopted. But his plan of
sending out vedettes seemed particularly dear to him; and
as no one else was disposed to second his views on this
point, he took it into his head to ride forward that afternoon,
himself.
"Come,
Parkman," said he, "will you go with me?"
We
set out together, and rode a mile or two in advance. The
captain, in the course of twenty years' service in the British
army, had seen something of life; one extensive side of
it, at least, he had enjoyed the best opportunities for
studying; and being naturally a pleasant fellow, he was
a very entertaining companion. He cracked jokes and told
stories for an hour or two; until, looking back, we saw
the prairie behind us stretching away to the horizon, without
a horseman or a wagon in sight.
"Now,"
said the captain, "I think the vedettes had better
stop till the main body comes up."
I
was of the same opinion. There was a thick growth of woods
just before us, with a stream running through them. Having
crossed this, we found on the other side a fine level meadow,
half encircled by the trees; and fastening our horses to
some bushes, we sat down on the grass; while, with an old
stump of a tree for a target, I began to display the superiority
of the renowned rifle of the back woods over the foreign
innovation borne by the captain. At length voices could
be heard in the distance behind the trees.
"There
they come!" said the captain: "let's go and see
how they get through the creek."
We
mounted and rode to the bank of the stream, where the trail
crossed it. It ran in a deep hollow, full of trees; as we
looked down, we saw a confused crowd of horsemen riding
through the water; and among the dingy habiliment of our
party glittered the uniforms of four dragoons.
Shaw
came whipping his horse up the back, in advance of the rest,
with a somewhat indignant countenance. The first word he
spoke was a blessing fervently invoked on the head of R.,
who was riding, with a crest-fallen air, in the rear. Thanks
to the ingenious devices of the gentleman, we had missed
the track entirely, and wandered, not toward the Platte,
but to the village of the Iowa Indians. This we learned
from the dragoons, who had lately deserted from Fort Leavenworth.
They told us that our best plan now was to keep to the northward
until we should strike the trail formed by several parties
of Oregon emigrants, who had that season set out from St.
Joseph's in Missouri.
In
extremely bad temper, we encamped on this ill-starred spot;
while the deserters, whose case admitted of no delay rode
rapidly forward. On the day following, striking the St.
Joseph's trail, we turned our horses' heads toward Fort
Laramie, then about seven hundred miles to the westward.