Massacre Rocks

Climbing Guide

May 2005 Version

You may reproduce this guide for non-profit personal use. All copies must include this cover page and copyright notice.

If you paid for this guide you got ripped off!

Updates available at www.seiclimbing.com

Season

Massacre Rocks is an awesome place to climb. Climbing can be done year round. Sunny days in the winter can provide a great day of climbing on walls which are protected from the wind and also receive ample sun. However, the summer months of July and August can cause spit to sizzle. I have seen dogs run for shade as the sand burns the pads of their paws. For the diehard climber a drive in the dark can bring you to Massacre Rocks in the early morning for some nice climbing temperatures. Evenings also provide some decent climbing in the hot months. The black rock, however, holds the heat so evening climbing can still be greasy.

The best times to climb are late February through early June and early September through early November.

Some More Info

Massacre Rocks receives its name from an Indian ambush that took place back in the old days. Massacre is located on the Snake River and is a beautiful place. The walls along the river provide the climber with views of various waterfowl species. Often you will be looking down on a huge bird as it glides along the river. The walls located "inland" from the river create beautiful box canyons that can hold a gaze for hours. The spring brings a myriad of wildflowers to bloom and makes even the manliest of man admit that flowers are cool. As things dry out the landscape gets bleak but the soft glow of evening light casts a calming over the harsh desert vista.

The rock is Basalt and is a blast to climb on. Pockets, edges, slopers, scums, cracks, seams, you name it Massacre Basalt has it. Most of the holds are edges and pockets.

The Please-take-care-of-it Spiel

The locals have been very protective of this climbing area, yet all admit that they love to visit other secret sites so with some trepidation this web page is created. As a matter of fact we talked one local out of writing an article for one of the well-known magazines.

The main access is via the backroads. To get to the crags one must pass through a few gates.

Watch out for animals
Keep your trash in your car
Close all gates

If you are camping on the backside you will want to bring your own firewood. There is wood out there but most of it is green Junipers or Sage Brush. There was a fire years ago that left snags here and there. These snags look good on the landscape and provide birds with perches. Be decent and leave them be, bring your own wood or better yet cook on a stove and cuddle for warmth. Some irresponsible climbers have started fires at the base of a few of the walls to keep warm on those winter days out. Again not too smart considering the hasty land management decisions being made these days.

Gear

Some esoteric gear you may want to bring could include a snake bite kit and the knowledge of how to use it. The Snake River plain is the home of some mighty big rattlers.

For climbing you mainly need a rack of quickdraws 14 should suffice on the longer routes while the majority of climbs take around 8. There are some natural pro lines but they are seldom done. For these a standard rack of cams and nuts should do the trick.

Ropes:

Some longer routes require two ropes to lower
If you are unsure take two ropes
Tie a knot in the end of the rope so you don't drop your partner

A garbage sack and a roll of toilet paper are always a good call.

Access

River Access

The quickest and easiest way to reach the Main Wall and Owl Cove, if you have access to a boat, is to cross the Snake River at Massacre State Park. Drive about 11.5 miles west of American Falls on I-86. Take the Massacre Rocks exit, exit #28. Park where the road Ts and pack your boat about 200 yards to the river, or drive to the boat ramp and boat 1/4 mile back upriver. Camping and showers are available at the State Park for a fee.

Driving Access

Two-wheel drive backroads will get you near most of the climbing. From the town of American Falls, take State Highway 39 across the American Falls Reservoir dam. Take the first left, Lamb-Weston Road. Listed mileage starts here.

0.3 miles: Turn left onto Borah Road
1.8 miles: Turn left onto Lake Channel Road, which is paved and more-or-less follows the river
13.5 miles: Look for a cattle guard where Lake Channel Road starts to turn right. You can turn left onto a gravel road just before the cattle guard. Follow this gravel road (for about 50 yards?) until you can turn left onto a dirt road that parallels the gravel road and follows a fence (the fence will be on your left). If there is a fence across the gravel road go back to Lake Channel road and cross the cattle guard. Once across the cattle guard you will see a dirt road on the left, turn onto this road. The road will then run into the gravel road. Cross the gravel road turning slightly left and pull onto the dirt road that parallels the gravel road.
After 0.4 miles on the dirt road you should see a place in the fence on the left that you can pass through. Put the fence/gate back up after passing through. There is a small outcropping of stones to the right of the gate.
Dive on a dirt road for 1.1 miles and pass through another fence/gate (this is sometimes down). There should be a water trough just on the other side of the gate.
The road turns sharply left and continues for 1.3 miles. Here you pass through another fence/gate.
Drive for another 0.6 miles and then turn hard right onto the road that leads to the various pullouts for the climbing.

To hike to the OUTBACK or MAIN WALL, don't take the last hard right. continue straight until the road takes a sharp left. Park here and hike the old road, now closed to motorized traffic.

The Snake River is aptly named. Rattlesnakes are common throughout this area. Watch your step!

Access Map

Map to Massacre Rocks

Massacre Rocks Walls

1. Main Wall	10. Dance Wall	19. Camptown Towers
2. Owl Cove	11. The Play Pen	20. Royalty Point
3. Le Petite Covette	12. Boulder Wall	21. Mighty-Mite Wall
4. All American Wall	13. Gang Fight Wall	22. The Morgue
5. Summer Wall	14. Wild Onion Wall	23. The Overlook
6. Eagle Wall	15. The Far Side	24. The Outback
7. Funny Business Wall	16. The Dragon’s Den	25. Forbidden Planet
8. Red Light District	17. King Wall	26. Westworld
9. Love Connection	18. Game Show Wall	27. Berlin Wall

Map of the Many Crags

Massacre Rocks Climbing Routes

Some routes have name tags on the first bolt so you can get an idea of where you are.

The star system is one bozo’s opinion of quality.

* O.K. **Fair ***Good ****Excellent *****A must do

The route grade gives you an idea of the difficulty, feel free to agree or disagree.

Routes rated on the Yosemite Decimal System (i.e. 5.10b).

All climbs are listed left to right when facing the rock.

Main Wall

This wall faces southeast, just above the river.

Associated walls:

Left-Wing Wall	Air Thee Wall	Long Wall Area	Bop and Beta Wall
Dog Wall	All Star Wall	Controversy Wall Area	The Wild Life Preserve

Left Wing Wall

Left-most climbs on the Main Wall

** GRIM R.P.er, 5.9+, fixed pin, starts on cute little arch
*DIM REEFER, 10B, ??
*** SUNDANCE, 10B, bolted arete
** MOONSTRUCK, 11A, bolts over spooky, blocky roof, fun upper face
* ICE BREAKER, 5.8, top-rope face/crack
** THREE DOGS FOR A DOLLAR, 11A, bolted slab/face, starts on upper ledge
HOLE-IN-THE-WALL, 5.7, chimney in deep corner, upper ledge start

Dog Wall

OUTLAW TRAIL, 5.8, large crack, right side
* DEPUTY DOG, 10C, (r), natural-pro crack
* CHILI DOGS, 10B/C, crack system
** LETHAL REJECTION, 11C/D, bolted bulge to steep headwall, upper ledge start
** DOG FIGHT, 11C, natural-pro crack, upper ledge start
** OBEDIENCE SCHOOL, 11A, another pro-your-own crack
** THE DOG POUND, 11A/B, bolt line through ship's prow arete
* THE MAD DOG, 11A/B, wild, pro-your-own crack
** THE MONGREL, 11B, good bolt line, several cruxes
*** BIRDDOG, 11C/D, starts on first three bolts of THE MONGREL, then straight up, over kinky bulge to steep, fun face
*** THE DOG CATCHER, 11D, starts in wide crack, up bulge, steep upper face/corner
**DOG AT LARGE, 11B, another good bolt line
*** DOG SLIDE, 10C, link-up; start on DOG AT LARGE, finish on SLIP SLIDE'N AWAY

Air Thee Wall

** SLIP SLIDE'N AWAY, 11A, 11 bolts up steep slab (crux), then fun, but somewhat run-out climbing up arete, left of large, right-facing corner system, 90 feet long, sport anchors
** GREASE MONKEY, 11B/C, bolted slab, 60'
**** AIR THEE WELL, 11B/C, pro-your own line, crack to slab, to overhanging headwall, classic
** BE SCARED AND HOLD ON TIGHT, 11B, 11 bolts, 100 feet long, wild slab, through roof, to overhanging crack
**** OFF-RAMP, 12A, start on short block, cruxy at second-to-third bolt, finish on steep arete
*** OVERPASS, 10A, good moderate natural pro line up book/crack, through roof (crux)
* COUNTRY RHOADS, 10?, crack through bulge, direct finish would be good, harder, needs bolts
** CRUISE'N THE STRIP, 11A/B, cracks left and right are off route, or its easier, 5 bolts
** FREEWAY, 10A, one-bolt start, wanders, finish in steep open book with log at top, 120'
** STREETS OF FIRE, 11A, bolts, arete finish
** SHERLOCK MOANS, 10C, 15 bolts, 100', first half rather loose and blocky, excellent arete finish
** TED'S DATE ROUTE, 5.9, pro-your-own line through bulge, up nice slot/book
** ALL RILED UP, 10C, top-rope

All Star Wall

*** GET PRIMATE OR FLY MATE, 12A/B, bolts up thin, flared crack, then face finish, 70'
*** VOODOO CHILD, 12A, short, steep, fun!!
** CASTLES MADE OF SAND, 10B, 9 bolts, climb first 3 bolts of DIRTY DANCING then veer left for 6 more bolts up right facing corner. Steep with big holds, a good warm-up
** DIRTY DANCING, 10D, 11 bolts, up and a bit right through overhanging plates and cracks, 90'
*** WINGIN' IN THE RAIN, 12A, crack through roof, face finish, steep and hard
**** DEBRA WINGER, 11 C/D, classic face and laybacks, bolts, 75'
*** LOCK-UP,11B, long (110'), lots of climbing, wild finish, 11 bolts
**** JACK THE WHIPPER, 11D/12A, classic overhanging face to finger crack , 85', 10 bolts
*** DISTRUBING THE PEACE, 11D, bolts, always steep
* GRAVITRON, 11A, bolts, 75', kind of grubby
**** GET A GRIP, 11C, great!, continuously cruxy, 75'
*** WHITE THRASH, 12A, short, always hard, leaver-biner at roof
*** MOMMY'S LITTLE MONSTER, 11B/C, 13bolts, rap-chain halfway, upper part is easier and real fun, 110'
**** NASTY DREAD LOCKS, 12A, long and hard, with several variations; right finish is the best & hardest
**** MISSING LINK, 11C, the original line on the wall and one of the best, 15 bolts, 115'
** HONEY COME DOWN, 11C, goes through roof/bulge, up headwall, continuously cruxy, 115'
**MELTDOWN, 11B, pro crack to headwall, then left and up with bolts, 120'
**** THE BULLY AT MUSCLE BEACH, 12B/C, test piece, bolts, starts just right of arete; first crux (MUSCLE BEACH) is 12A; overhanging headwall finish (THE BULLY) has crux at the top, 120', good luck!
* TOTALLY TUBULAR, 11B, pro crack, finishes on bolted headwall
**** GOOD FLYDAY, 12B, overhanging bolted face, several cruxes, good for a pump!, 80'
THE MUMMY, 10C, pro crack through roof
**HO! YO-YO-YO!, 11C, bolts, starts on poor rock, finish moves are worth the climb, 60'
****TIME KEEPS ON SLIP'N, SLIP'N, SLIP'N, 12A, pro crack, crux at upper arching finger crack, sustained, 60' to sport anchors
*** CRANK CALLS, 11C, bolt line through kinky slots, then left to steep headwall, 120'
***JOY RIDE, 11C, bolts, shares several moves with CRANK CALLS, then goes right, up through wide slot, 120'
*** SNOW JOB, 11C, bolts, up face and flared crack, shares a move or tow with TOXIC SOCKS, pumpy, steep crack/face finish, 125'
****TOXIC SOCKS SYNDROME, 10D, bolts, pumpy, 125', starts just left of short free-standing pillar
** WAYLAID PILLAR, 11D, 2 bolts, hard clips
** WAYLAID, 11B, starts on the right side of the pillar, through crux at flare/roof, 120'
****CAREER OF THE 90'S, 11C/D, 12 bolts, great moves, 120'
**** MASS-A-CRACK, 11B, great pro-your-own crack through flared roof, to bolts on overhanging headwall
**** YOLANDA, 11D, bolt line up hard face, wild bulge, good steep headwall finish, 125', or rap half way (wimpy!)

Long Wall Area

** FIREFALL, 12A, bolts, through bulge/roof, sustained, continuously technical, 130', good in spite of some flaky rock
DALE'S ROOF, top-rope project up corner to roof/headwall
** BLACK TIDE, 11D, about 15 bolts, long & steep
**** DANGER ZONE, 12A, one of the best long routes at Massacre; good for a monster forearm pump!! original line goes straight up to a rest ledge, then a wild traverse left, (11D). Best variation diagonals left, avoiding the rest ledge
* ALL JAMMED UP, 11C, pro crack, first part is somewhat dirty, past pin, to right-facing corner; upper face is fantastic, pumpy climbing, 130+ feet long

Controversy Wall Area

*** THE STRANGER, 11C/D, bolts, strange moves!, step left at crux, then up and right
*** AMBUSHED, 11C, bolts, crux at bush, (good hand hold!?) lots of good climbing. NOTE: climbs over a Canadian goose nest; don't climb this route in the spring if geese are around
** DELUX AGGREVATION, 10D/11A, pro crack, starts in corner, through roofs and bulges, past fixed pin, finish on steep headwall, 130'
**** A SURPRISE FOR MOM, 12A (a Mother's Day gift!) bolted face/arete, steep, great power moves off small holds, 60'
*** PUBLIC ENEMA #1, 11A/B, 14 bolts, enjoyable, crux is from second-to-third bolt, steep, pumpy finish
*** COOKED GOOSE, 11C, bolted face to bolted, overhanging crack, to arete finish; plenty of great, hard climbing, 125'
** CHASING WILD GEESE, 11A, pro crack, shares overhanging crack with COOKED GOOSE, then left up crack system
**** THE SLOT MACHINE, 11D/12A, bolts, hard and sustained form the start, the crux is above the mid-way anchors, arete finish, 125', excellent!
*** THE SLOTS, 11C, natural cracks above the mid-way anchors on THE SLOT MACHINE, straight up or left into corner
*** ROBBIN' THE CRADLE, 11C, 4 bolts, thin crack, short-but-groovy, 35'
* IN YOUR FACE, 12A/B, bolts, filthy start, good crux moves over bulge, good 5.11 climbing above
** SWING DANCING, 11A, start in corner/wide crack with sharp chockstone, up chimney, then go left to face with thin crack; natural line, but good anyway!, 120'
*** CHORUS LINE, 5.8, same start as SWING DANCING, but go right after chimney; great "date" climb, good natural pro, varied, 120'
*** THE PILLAR, 11C, natural crack line, using only the top bolt for finish face moves, 40'
*** THE WEENIE, 11A/B, controversial bolt addition to THE PILLAR; stemming left and clipping bolts makes it easier and wimpy
** AIRWAVES, 10C, 8 bolts, 50', about 30 yards right of THE WEENIE, beyond the old fence
** STAND BY FOR TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES, 11B, 9 bolts
** AM/FM, 11C, 8 bolts, 50'

Bop and Beta Wall

(about 100 yards right, past broken area)

*** IF YOU AIN'T CRANK'N IT, YOU MUST BE SPANK'N IT, 11D, bolts, starts on upper ledge, 60'
**** A FACE IN THE CROWD, 10B, enjoyable bolted face, starts on right edge of upper ledge, 75'
*** THE BETA GARDEN, 10C, bolts, starts on first two bolts of DORQUE CONVERTER, then up and left, finishes on great arete, 95'
**** DORQUE CONVERTER, 12A/B, bolt line, shares start with BETA GARDEN, then right and up overhanging headwall; technical, pumpy, great!! 110'
*** BOP 'TIL YOU DROP, 11D, bolts, through bulges, wild layback crux; hard clip!, 125'
*** LIFE OF RILEY, 11C, start off boulder, bolts, crux is bulge half-way up
** THE AUSTIN SHUFFLE, 11B, natural crack/corner system through left corner/roofs, good, 125'
** AH VUE RAGGAE, 11A, bolt line up face, through roof/bulge, onto slab face, 125'
* MARTY'S WILD IDEA, 12???, project on right side of slab
** IF YOU'RE NOT PRO'N IT, YOU'RE BLOW'N IT, 5.9, natural crack line/corner system inside right facing corner, through roof, 100'
*** CRITICAL MASS, 11D, great bolt line, crux is above ledge, then sustained face; technical and pumpy, 90'
* VANNA WHITE, 11B/C, top rope project on ledge above broken rock
*** DANCING WITH MYSELF, 10C, 12 bolts, roof start to slab/face to steep finish
** SALTY BUGGERS, 11C/D, 9 bolts, several cruxes
*** CALLING ELVIS, 11C/D, 4 bolts, short, blunt arete
*** TWIST & SHOUT, 10C, pro-crack to anchors
**** RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, 10B, 9 bolts, about 25 yards right of SALTY BUGGERS
** BORN TO BE WILD, 11C, bolts up white face

The Wild Life Preserve

** SOMETHING WILD, 11A/B, bolted slab/face, colored hangers
** WILY E. COYOTE, 10C, natural crack line, right facing corner/crack, past huge, loose-looking block
**** DOGGY STYLE ARETE, 12A, wild arete, pumpy headwall, 75'
**** WILD AT HEART, 11B/C, bulge to face to headwall, great pump/jug-hall, 75'
** ABOVE THE LAW, 11C, roof/slot crux start to fun upper climbing
*** HOSSTYLE, 11D, bolts up left-facing corner; good luck with this one!!

Owl Cove

U-shaped cove about 1/4 mile west, down-river, of the Main Wall. Climbs are listed clockwise, starting on the west wall.

Associated walls:

Cling/Clang Wall

* BLIND DATE, 5.8, top-rope, bulge to corner
** CLING, 11A/B, bolts, short, sweet, steep!
** CLANG, 11C, bolts, same finish as CLING
** SPRING SPAWNER, 11C/D, bolts, another short, steep one
** JABBERWOCKY, 10C, 4 bolts, curving dark face
*** WILD THANG, 12A/B, 6 bolts, wild layback!!
** THE WILD SIDE, 11A/B, 9 bolts, starts in corner, move left onto arete/face, fun headwall finish
** THE VILE SIDE, 11D/12A, 4 bolt variation to the start of WILD SIDE
** THE MILD SIDE, 10D/11A, 3 bolts, short-but-fun face

Owl Wall

** BAD DATE, 5.8, pro-your-own crack/block
** GET LAID, 10D, 8 bolts, tricky layback top crux
** HEAVY PETTING, 5.9/10A, 6 bolts, starts beneath small roof
** FIRST DATE, 5.9, pro corner/crack/roof
*** DV8, 11D, bolts on blunt corner to face, thin crux!
*** SPACE VIOLATOR, 11A, bolts up center of face, 60', save some juice for the top!
*** BLACK MAMBA, 11B, bolts same start as SPACE VIOLATOR, then right and up, tricky laybacks
** FACE SHOT, 10C, short bolted face
** SPACE SHOT, 10B, tricky bolted blunt arete/face
** JEFF-BOY-R.D., 10B, 6 bolts, corner to face
**** HOLEY TROJANS, 12A, 4 bolts, left side of steep slab, thin moves!
** HOT DATE, 11A, 4 bolts, right side of slab, same anchors as HOLEY TROJANS
** DATE BAIT, 5.9/10A, 3 bolts in corner
** WET DREAMS, 10B, 4 bolts, blunt prow
**** TOW JOB, 12D, 3 bolts, steep slab with dime-thin edges
*** THE SLOB, 11B/C, 3 bolts, groovy moves

Asylum Wall

west-facing wall on east side of Owl Cove

** SOCIOPATH, 10B if you climb on the left side of the bolt line, 10C on the right, upper ledge start
*** PSYCHOPATH, 10C, bolts, upper ledge start, fun
** COMA TOES, 10D (if you stay on the arete!), 5 bolts, a giggle of a climb, 35'
*** WELCOME TO THE FUNNY FARM, 11D, 7 bolts, good face moves
*** CHALK THERAPY, 10B/C, 7 bolts
**** STRAIGHT JACKET, 12A, bolts up black bulge/face, kinky!!
*** COMMITED, 13B/C, direct start to straight jacket, two additional bolts on the direct start
** BRAIN DEAD BUT GOOD IN BED, 10C, bolts up overhanging flare, weird moves!
*** ACROPHOBIA, 11B, 6 bolts, starts up crack/slot
** PSYCHO BILLY, 11C/D, bolts up left side of huge block
** SWEETHEARTS OF THE RODEO, 11A/B, bolts up right side of block, same finish as PSYCHO BILLY
**** PERVERT'S PLEASURES, 12A (if you don't wimp out and use the block to the left!!), sustained, 6 bolts, up two parallel seams to dihedral finish
**** CAT-A-TONIC, 12A, 6 bolts up thin face
**** PAVLOV'S DOGS, 12B, 8 bolts, white face just left of obvious roof, great!!
*** OEDIPUS COMPLEX, 11B, bolts, through big roof, using right side only is harder
**** MANIAC, 12D, 6 bolts up white face, Massacre's best hard climb!
*** AMNESIA, 11C, 7 bolts through crux flare
* ITS TIME FOR YOUR MEDICATION, 11C, bolts, kind of contrived
*** PATHOLOGICAL FLYER, 11C/D, 10 bolts, excellent and varied moves, crux at top if you avoid off-route crack to the left
**** ZIGMAN VOID, 11D/12A, 4 bolts up z-seam face
**** FREUDIAN SLIP, 11A, bolts, great concave crack/face, crux is after last bolt!
** OFF YOUR ROCKER, 10D, 9 bolts, several crux sections

Lower Tier of Asylum Wall

Next 5 routes; below and right of OFF YOUR ROCKER

*** STILL CRAZY AFTER ALL THESE YEARS, 11D, 4 bolts, blunt arete, sharp edges
** DEMONIC POSSESSION, 11C/D, pro crack, second crack right of STILL CRAZY, behind big juniper
** DELIRIOUS, 11A/B, next crack right, needs pro
** SEIZURE, 4 bolts on arete, 12B/C using arete only, 11C if you use the crack to the right
*** SLIPPIN' POST, ??, next thin pro crack
*** SERIAL DRILLER, 11D/12A, 15 bolts, long, several cruxes
*** NURSE RATCHET, 5.9/10A, 4 bolts up weird, eroded plates
** DOCTOR FEELGOOD, 11C/D, 11 bolt continuation of NURSE RATCHET
* RATTLED-ER, 5.9/10A, long pro-your-own to the top
**TED'S & MARTY'S WONDERFUL ADVENTURE, 10D, long pro crack, left of obvious large face
*** SKETCH-O-FRANTIC, 11C, bolt line up right side of face, kind of loose rock at start, gets better, kinky moves!, steep finish
**YO RILEY CRACK, 11A, pro crack, starts on left side of short pillar
**** SPLIT PERSONALITY, 12B, bolts, starts on short pillar, then right, great climb! stemming start to crack, crux face finish
** NO MO NATURAL PRO, 11D, crack with bolts, might want to stick-clip first bolt
*** AIRHEAD, 11C, bolts, up hand-jam crack to great, steep finish
*** PAIN THRILLER, 11C/D, 8 bolts, starts in thin, tough finger crack, then up and left for steep face finish
**LOCO, 10D, 5 bolts
*** EVERYBODY AND THEIR DOG, 11A, bolts up wild, detached pillar
** LUNATIC, 10C/D, starts on first 2 bolts of D.T., then left for 4 bolts, finishes on same anchors as D.T., one of Massacre's best stemming climbs
** DELIRIUM TREMENS, 11A, 5 bolts, face right of pillar
*** WILD VIRUS, 10D, 6 bolts, good moves
*** SPECIAL OLYMPICS, 11B, 7 bolts, up crack to blunt, brown arete, crux is thin finish
** WATCHTOWER, 10B, bolts up prow on outside corner of Owl Cove
** CRYDAY THE 13th, 11A, bolts, on spooky-looking wall just around the corner from the Owl Cove, good rock and climbing after a shaky start
*** THE WHINERY, 11C/D, clip the first 3 bolts on CRYDAY, then move right, up hard finger crack and over bulges

Rubble Wall

Broken-looking area between the Owl Cove and the Main Wall. Best approached by traversing from the Owl Cove

** LONE RANGER, 11B, bolt line left of obvious dihedral
** PUPPY CHOW, 5.9, left route on solid, west-facing brown wall, about 50 yards right of the Owl Cove. Boulder up to ledge (1 bolt) to a 2-bolt belay anchor, 6 bolts
*** DOUBLE-DOG-DARE, 11C/D, clip the first 3 bolts on PUPPY CHOW, then move right and up over the hard bulge, 4 more bolts

Le Petite Covette

West facing cirque about 1/4 mile north of the Owl Cove.

Associated walls:

French Wall

Hobbit Wall

French Wall

faces west

* FRENCH KISSING, 5.9, pro crack
*** MON AMIE, 11D, 6 bolts up arete/face
** SOLITAIRE, 11C/D, 5 bolts, just left of mange/wide crack
** WHEE-WHEE, 11C, 4 bolts, hard start out of small roof, hard finish if you go up from 4th bolt; off-route finish if you hand traverse right after 3rd bolt
** TRUFFLES, 11A, 8 bolts, weird-but-good rock to steep headwall finish
**** TOTALLY FRENCH, 12A/B, 8 bolts, steep face left of big roof; scintillating moves!!
** ALL NATURALE, 10C, good pro crack through roof, right or left side; left crack is harder
** PEPE LA'PEAU, 10D, 7 bolts, just right of roofs
**** THIS SMOO IS FOR YOU, 10C, 7 bolts, real fun (don't disturb the resting SMOO at the first bolt!!)
*** MR. McGOO, 10B, 6 bolts, dihedral just right of SMOO, harder if you don't open your eyes and find the hidden hold at the last bolt!
*** HONOR AMONGST FIENDS, 11D, 8 bolts, 10 yards right of SMOO, starts just right of little roof, then up sustained face, good!
** THE GUILLOTINE, 10D, 8 bolts, stemming start, over small roofs, to crux bulge
** FRENCH TOAST, 10A, 7 bolts, same start as GUILLOTINE, then right and up slot
** WATER LILLY, 10B, 5 bolts, about 20 yards right
*** WATER LOUIE, 12B/C, 5 bolts, psycho laybacking!

Hobbit Wall

To the right of French Wall, faces northwest

** MAGIC RINGS, 11B, hard 2-bolt start, to big ledge, then 6 bolts of fun climbing up crack/face
*** GANDALF TAKES A WIZ, 12A, same start as MAGIC RINGS, then continues up arete; steep and mean!
*** HOBBIT HEAVEN, 10C/D, 7 bolts, great face climb
**** GOLLUM, 11C/D, bolts up overhanging arete; steep, pumpy, great!
** BILBO ON A BUNGEE, 11A, 4-bolt variation to ...POCKETS
**** WHAT'S ITS GOTS IN IT'S POCKETS, 11B/C, 8 bolts, great finger pockets, thin moves, steep face
** HOBBIT-FORMING, 10A, fun pro-your-own crack, finishes on last 2 bolts of ....POCKETS
*** MENAGE-A-TROIS, 12B/C, 3 bolts, short-but-sweet!

All American Wall

This wall faces south and has four major areas associated with it.

Associated walls:

All American Wall

South-facing wall, about 1/4 mile west of French Wall.

* LITTLE BIG MAN, 10B, 6 bolts, blocky
**** A STICKY SITUATION, 11D, 6 bolts up crack/face, save some go-juice for the top!
*** BANANA SPLITS, 11B direct start, or easier right start, 11A dihedral finish
** FRIED CHICKEN, 11C/D, bolts up next dihedral
*** WALL STREET, 10B/C, bolts
** MAIN STREET, 5.9, bolts, shares top anchor with WALL STREET
*** KITTY HAWK, 10B/C, bolts and a dubious-looking pin
** ROCK-A-BILLY, 11A, 8 bolts, up thin slab to bulge, shares anchors with KITTY HAWK
*** GEAR JAMMER, 11B, pro crack
**** PRETTY WOMAN, 11A/B, 10 bolts, sustained , starts just right of brown bulge, one of Massacre's best!!
**** ALL-AMERICAN MAN, 12B, bolts, "nerd crack" to the right is off-route
*** FIREWORKS ON THE FOURTH, 11A,/B, bolts, sustained, steep, good rock; what more could you ask of a climb?!
*** MISS AMERICAN PIE, 12A, traverse right at roof of FIREWORKS...., then up steep bulge for 3 bolts
** SNICKERS, 10C, about 15 yards right of FIREWORKS.. scramble up past one bolt to big platform to belay, then 4 more bolts
** PEANUT GALLERY, 10D, 4 bolts, just right of SNICKERS

Rural Wall

To the right of PEANUT GALLERY, about 30 yards)

*** SUNNY SIDE UP, 5.8. 5 bolts, scramble up and belay on ledge
**** BURNT TOAST, 12B, 4 bolts up blunt prow, thin!!
*** BISCUITS & GRAVY, 10A, 4 bolts crack/inside corner
** BUTT CLEAVAGE, 10D, 6 bolts, face just left of arete, hollow flakes
** TOTALLY AGRICULTURAL, 11A, 6 bolts, blunt arete, shares anchors with BUTT CLEAVAGE
** PRIZE FIGHT, 10C, 6 bolts, fun steep headwall finish
* WIDE LOAD, 5.7, top-rope up wide slot to R.Q. anchors
** RODEO QUEEN, 10A, 5 bolts
** MIGRANT LABOR, 10D, 5 bolts, same finish as R.Q.
*** COYOTE BAIT, 11B, 6 bolts up white face
** RAWHIDE, 5.9, 6 bolts, starts in corner/slot
*** WHINING BABIES, 5.8+, 7 bolts, brown slab start
**LOLITA, 10B, 6 bolts, same finish as W.B.
***G.I. JOE, 10C, 5 bolts, bulge at top
*** BARBIE, 10B, 5 bolts, same finish as G.I. JOE
** FIRE INSIDE, 11C, 6 bolts, left-leaning arete
** FIRE FLIES, 10A/B, pro crack with fixed pin at top
*** ROSY THE RIVETER, 11A, bolts up bulge/face
*** WORKING MAN, 10A, 6 bolts up box dihedral
*** TICK FEVER, 11C, 7 bolts
**** FAMOUS POTATOES, 11C, 6 bolts
?? top anchors
** SUNSHINE, 10B, 6 bolts
** MOONBEAM, 10B, 5 bolts

T & L Area

Continues right of Rural Wall

** LOCO-MOTIVE, 11A, 5 bolts, nice face
*** DERAILED, 11D, 4 bolts, face to arete, using the crack to the left makes it much easier
*** CABOOSE, 10A, bolts, stem up left side of big block, crux finish
*** WOMEN ON THE LOOSE, 10C, block start, bolts up face/shallow arete
** THELMA, 10B, 6 bolts, left side of arete
** AND, 11D, 3 bolt start to THELMA-LOUISE
** LOUISE, 11A, 5 bolts on right side of prow, same finish as THELMA
*** THE TERMINATOR, 12B, 5 bolts, white face, traverse right to roof; going up right side of wall to roof is easier (11D?)
** BORDER TOWN, 11B, 6 bolts
**** DREAM ON, 12B/C, 5 bolts, starts on ledge behind juniper tree, great pockets to wild, steep scoop

South of the Border Area

Climbs are near the big roof

** PASTA LA POOPLA, 10A, 4 bolts. "The hardest 10A I have done!" There is a hidden hold that makes it possibly 10A but most people think 10C. Good to break big egos.
* JALAPENO, 5.9, 3 bolts, finishes up wide crack
*** FIESTA, 5.8, 5 bolts up corner
*** CARTOON VIOLENCE, 11D/12A, 6 bolts, blunt arete start, thin crux moves on steep headwall
*** ROADRUNNER ROOF, 11D, 7 bolts, starts in white dihedral, exits out left side of big roof, shares anchors with CARTOON...
**** THE TICK, 13A, bolts up white face, then directly over big roof, powerful crimp moves!
*** RUN FOR THE BORDER, 11B, 7 bolts, good face/dihedral, just right of the roof
** EL GRANDE CORVETTE, 11A, 5 bolts in shallow dihedral
**** I-CHI-HUA-HUA, 12B, 6 bolts in next shallow dihedral, starts out left side of low roof
** ZORRO, 10A, 8 bolts
** SPEEDY GONZALES, 5.9, 7 bolts, starts on boulder/ledge, goes to chain anchors
*** DOS EQUIS, 10A, 7 bolts, starts on big block, just right of SPEEDY, loose-looking block load tested, but as always, assume nothing; climbing can be risky!!
** LOW RIDER, 10A, 4 bolts
** HASTA LA HOOPLA, 11C, first bolt is high, and has a tag on it
** THE BREEZE, 5.9, 6 bolts in wide corner
*** JOSE CAN YOU SEE, 10C, 6 bolts, steep face
*** STAR SPANGLED BANGER, 10A, 6 bolts on blunt arete
** EASIER SAID THAN DONE, 10D, 6 bolts in dihedral, shares anchors with STAR SPANGLED....
** ACAPULCO CLIFF DIVING, 11B, bolts up right side of arete
** LITTLE MISS MUFFET, 5.9, 5 bolts, starts on ramp about 20 feet right of ACAPULCO...
*** THE HOBO, 11A, 4 bolts, fun steep face
** TRES HOMBRES, 11D, 3 bolts up brown prow
** CACA-MONGO, 11B, bolts on steep face
??? TEQUILA SUNRISE, 13C??, 5 bolts, overhanging white face, around the corner from CACA..., hasn't been done

Summer Wall

North-facing, red and white streaked wall on the south side of the "big valley".

No associated walls

**** SUMMER HUMMER, 11B, bolts, left-most route, gray rock, continuous and fun
** THE WEENIE ROAST, 12A, bolts up left side of dihedral, thin crank up high
*** THE PICNIC, 10A, right dihedral to anchors beneath huge block
**** SHADY LADY, 11D/12A, bolts up reddish face, crux low but sustained above
*** THE AIR SHOW, 11D, 7 bolts, thin crack to steep ramp
** SUMMERTIME BLUES, 11B, ? bolts, nice sustained route
* SCHOOL'S OUT, 11B/C, ? bolts, dirty but fun route, bouldery start to solid face fairly sustained
**** DOG DAZE, 12A/B, bolts up right end of wall, obvious crack start, way technical and fun!

Eagle Wall

West-facing wall at the upper end of the "big valley".

Associated walls:

Eagle Wall

Echo Point

Eagle Wall

*** STUMPED, 12A, left most bolt line, short, tricky
** FREE AS A BIRD, 10D, 12 bolts, 100', corner to wide crack to face
**** RAP-TOUR, 10A/B, 10 bolts, one of the best moderate routes at Massacre, finishes on left side of pretty brown face
*** EAGLE FEATHER, 11C, variation finish between RAP-TOUR and RUFFLED FEATHERS, best to belay on big half-way ledge
*** RUFFLED FEATHERS, 10C/D, 10 bolts, somewhat funky start leads to good climbing up right side of brown face
** BEARLY THERE, 11B, bolts up flare to dihedral; watch for some loose stuff higher up
*** D.O.A. (a.k.a. DAN'S OUT OF ACTION), 12B, 9 bolts, sick flare start, steep, pumpy middle, wild finish, named in honor of "busted finger" first ascent
*** AIR OF THE DOG, 11C, bolts, past huge flake, quite sustained and good
*** THE EAGLE HAS LANDED, 11B/C, 5 bolts, classic stemming
** MY MAIN SQUEEZE, 11C/D, 12 bolts, up and right into dihedral
*** SHE'S A SCREAMER, 11D/12A, bolts, starts left of "cave", over roof, then left to great arete climbing
** HELTER SKELTER, 12A, bolts out of cave, then up and right to half-way anchors
** THE PERCH, 11C, 10 bolts, funky start leads to fun moves around left side and up onto jutting horizontal flake, then laybacks up shallow dihedral
** THE DIVING BOARD, 11D, shares start and finish with THE PERCH; goes straight up right side of jutting flake
**** BULLETS AND BUTTERFLY WINGS,12D/13A, bolts, finger crack through roof, steep slabs above
**** BIG BALLS IN COW TOWN, 12B, bolts up left-tending dihedral
**** COWTOWN STUD, 12A, variation start of ONE BAD STUD; clip the first 5 bolts of BIG BALLS, then right and up steep face to anchors
**** ONE BAD STUD, 12A, same start as SHE AIN'T PRETTY..., then diagonal left and up steep face; sustained and excellent
*** SHE AIN'T PRETTY, SHE JUST LOOKS THAT WAY, 11B, bolts up shallow , sustained corner
** LAYLA, 11C, bolts just left of small arete
** BIG HAIR, 11D, bolts up face, over crux roofs at top
** FREE BIRD, 11B, bolts up to tricky right traverse; good steep finish
** SMOOTH TALKER, 11B/C, bolts, move right up slab start, into slot, steep face finish
**** WILDFIRE, 12A, bolts up face/arete/face, marvelous climb!!
**** FIRE AWAY, 12A/B, 8 bolts, shares the first 4 bolts of TOUR..., then up the blunt arete/face; Massacre's best 12A/B!?!?
*** TOUR de PUMP, 11B, 8 bolts, up left-leaning, steep ramp, then traverse right across face to slot
*** FLIES ON A HOTDOG, 10A, 8 bolts, starts in big dihedral
* SCARY LITTLE CRACK, 11A, crack/dihedral, same start as BIRDCAGE, then straight up; loose blocks?
** BIRDCAGE, 11A, 8 bolts, up left crack for 3 bolts, then traverse right and up right dihedral
* SIDESWIPED, 11C, 2 bolt variation of SIDEWINDER;
**** SIDEWINDER, 11D, bolts, traverse right into flare, up face/arete
CORNHOLIO, 10D, bolts up corners to steep slabs; Massacre's worst bolt line??!!

Broken section of wall

*** SUDDEN DOWN SYNDROM, 13A, 5 bolts up overhanging corner, just plain hard!
** BARNEY RUBBLE, 11B, bolt line up flare to wide slot to face
*** ZIPPITY-DO-DA, 12B, 13 bolts, 100', first climb on right section of wall, thin crack/seam crux
* PRAIRIE DOG, 11C, bolts, kinky moves up bulge, then up big dihedral with a big, loose-looking block
** BIRD OF PREY, 12A, same start as PRAIRIE DOG, then right to nice sustained arete/face
*** DAYDREAM BELIEVER, 12B, bolts up hard layback, up flare, then good climbing up face, same finish as BIRD OF PREY
* THE DISEASE, 11D, next bolt line right, blocky finish (loose rock??)
*** HAPPY-HAPPY-JOY-JOY, 10D, 13 bolts, up discontinuous dihedrals, 100'
*** GOOD AND PLENTY, 10D, 12 bolts, clip the first 7 bolts of HAPPY...., then move right into fun dihedral for 5 more bolts, 95'
*** OVERSEER, 12B, tricky bulge to crux laybacking through roof
*** BLADERUNNER, 11D, 7 bolts, up huge flake, wild!!
**** BLOOD, SWEAT, AND BEERS, 12C+, right-most line on the wall; wild 12A roof leads to hard crux moves at last 2 bolts.

Echo Point

North-facing wall across the gully, just to the right of Eagle Wall

*** ECHO PHOBIA, 12A, 4 bolts on prow then 3 bolt face finish
** OUT OF THE FLYING PAN, 11D, 5 bolts up grey face, step left to pillar, then same finish as ECHO PHOBIA
**** FLAMBÉ, 12C/D, 9 bolts up center of overhanging face, Massacres most sustained route
*** FLAME ON, 12A, 5 bolts up crack/corner then finish on last 3 bolts of FLAMBÉ
** YO-YO-MA-MA, 10B, 8 bolts up face/slot/prow
*** KING KONG, 12B/C, 7 bolts up hard face and corners

Funny Business Wall

South-facing wall about 100 yards northwest of Eagle Wall.

No associated walls

** LEGENDS OF THE FALL, 11D, 4 bolts on left side of short, very steep wall
*** SAMURAI WARRIOR, 12C, 4 bolts, same anchor as LEGENDS...
** MICKEY, 10C, up left side of big block, then angle right
*** MINNIE, 10A/B, right side of block, up blunt arete
*** GOOFY, 12A, 4 bolts, up layback/flare, short and mean!!

Short broken section of wall

*** WHAT A CRACKUP, 10A, 4 bolts, slab to crack to face
** DIE LAUGHING, 10B, 4 bolts, slab to dihedral
**** KAMIKAZE, 13A/B, 3 bolts, drilled mono-digit pockets
*** SICK HUMOR, 11B, 7 bolts, 2 cruxes!!
** JOKE 'EM IF THEY CAN'T TAKE A FUCK, 11C, 7 bolts, slab crux
*** SLAP-STICK, 10D, 5 bolts, arete behind big juniper tree
* THE IMPROV, 11B, 7 bolts up way-kinky, blocky arete
*** KERMIT THE FROG, 10C, 7 bolts, good flared dihedral; look for "frog-head" profile at base
*** GOOD FOR A LAUGH OR TWO, 11C, 7 bolts, bulge start, short dihedral up side of block, steep face finish
**** YUK IT UP, 12B/C, 8 bolts, up to blunt arete, hard moves over bulge, easier but sustained to the anchors
*** GIGGLES, 11A, great dihedral; clip the first 3 bolts on YUK...., then 4 more bolts to anchors
*** THE PUNCHLINE, 10C, 6 bolts, up the middle of the face
** STAND-UP COMEDY, 11C/D, 7 bolts up prow/slab, several technical, thin cruxes!!
*** JUST FOR LAUGHS, 10B, 7 bolts, starts just left of the fence
** HEE-HAW, 10C, right-most bolt line

Red Light District

East-facing wall, about 1/4 mile west of Eagle Wall.

No associated walls

*** THE MATINEE/ADULTS ONLY, 10A/12B, starts at the left corner of the east-facing wall; go up 6 bolts to the top of the column and chain anchors (10A); safer to belay here if doing the more serious 3-bolt finish (12B)
** LOVE CANAL, 11D/12A, 4 bolts, pocket-pulling crux
** KINKY, 11B/C, bolts, shares a move or two with LOVE CANAL
*** LOVE SLAVE, 10C, up to ledge, then up dihedral to face finish
*** BARBARA DARE, 11A/B, 6 bolts, shares start and anchors with LOVE SLAVE
*** GIRLY MON, 10D, up to ledge, then up right-leaning dihedral
*** IMMACULATE DECEPTION, 11B/C, 7 bolts, thin dihedral start, finishes over left side of obvious roof
** JAIL BAIT, 11C, same first 3 bolts as IMMACULATE DECEPTION, then right, up prow; surprise finish!!
** BOY TOY, 10D/11A, 5 bolts, several variations

Short broken section of wall

**** SWEATY BETTY, 12C/D, 4 bolts, starts on "coral lava" ledge, up overhanging white dihedral; steep and powerful
*** HOLLOW WEENIE, 12A/B, 5 bolts, down and 20 yards right of SWEATY BETTY; white face, thin moves
** LIP SERVICE, 11C, 3 bolts
*** PRIVATE DANCER, 12C/D, 3 bolts on blunt prow
** THE TEASE, 10D, 4 bolts
** SLAM, BAM, THANK YOU MAM!, 10C, 5 bolts, blunt arete start
*** SCARED STIFF, 11A, bolts up brown "hourglass" face, then same finish as SLAM, BAM.....
*** WOODY IN THE WOODS, 5.9-, 5 bolts up crack to chain anchors
** MARATHON MAN, 5.10B, 5 bolts to belay hooks, slab bulging to vertical at top
**** NO HIPS, HANDS, OR BUTTS, 5.9-, bolts, fun dihedral to chain anchors
** LAY BACK AND ENJOY, 10B, 4 bolts, bulge to sport anchors
**** TRICKS AIN'T FOR KIDS, 12A/B, bolts up thin, technical white face, hard from the ground up!
*** WHAT A CLIMB, MAX!, 12A, 4 bolts, tricky moves, same anchors as TRICKS....

Love Connection

This is the site of some of Massacre Rocks hardest climbs. Short walk from parking.

Associated walls:

Love Connection

Choss Factory

Wall of Zen

Love Connection

Short, steep wall, faces south, is around the corner to the left of Red Light District; some of the best hard climbs at Massacre.

**** FRENCH CONNECTION, 11C/D, 4 bolts, steep jug hauling
**** LA FEMME NIKITA, 12A, 4 bolts, pockets, pumpy
**** APHRODISIAC, 13A, 5 bolts, relentless, creative footwork
*** APHRODITE, 13A/B, link-up, starts on FRENCH CONNECTION, then APHRODISIAC finish
**** LOVE CONNECTION, 12A, 4 bolts, another pumper
**** LOVE ON THE ROCKS, 12B, 4 bolts, whee!!
**** KAMA-SUTRA, 13B, 7 bolt traverse from F.C. to L.O.T.R.
*** ONE NIGHT FLING, 12C, clip the first bolt of L.O.T.R., then right & up for 3 bolts
** NOTHING BUT A 2-BIT WHORE, 12C, 2 bolts, 20'

Choss Factory

This wall is about 200 yards west of the Love Connection wall. The name comes from the funky bulbous rock at the base and all of the cleaning that was done. This wall faces south south east. Don't let the name fool you, if you are in the area the routes are pretty fun. The chain anchors don't accept carabiners on the upper links to let you thread the rope.

** THE CHOSSIMATOR, 10C, 5 bolts + chain anchors, climb up for two bolts and then move left
*** CHOSS PRODUCTION, 10B, 5 bolts + chain anchors, shares first two bolts with THE CHOSSIMATOR then moves left, cool fin holds
** CHOSSIMATIC 2000, 11A, 5 bolts shares anchor with CHOSS PRODUCTION, climb up right side of bulbous/chossy roof, use long draw on first bolt then move left. Balancy moves to ledge then moderate upper headwall
** CHOSS-A-HAULIC, 10A, 5 bolts shares anchor with CHOSS PRODUCTION and CHOSSIMATIC 2000, shares first bolt of CHOSSIMATIC 2000, fun moves

Wall of Zen

East facing, 30' high wall, about 100 yards north of Dance Wall, 4 sets of chain anchors.

** FUNKY BUDDHA, 5.9, 3 bolts, left-most route
** CONFUSIONISM, 12A, 3 bolts
*** YEN, 12C, 3 bolts
**** YANG, 12B, clip the first two bolts of YEN, then angle right for two more bolts, fun moves
*** ZEN, 12D, 3 bolts

Dance Wall

East facing, about 1/2 mile southwest of The Love Connection Wall, 150 yards right of The Play Pen

Associated walls:

Dance Wall

Shelter Rock

Dance Wall

** THE SIDE STEP, 11A, 4 bolts, white face; crux is getting to the first bolt
** THE TWIST, 11B, 6 bolts, 10 yards right of THE SIDE STEP
*** THE FAST WALTZ, 11D, 6 bolts, dihedral to blunt arete
** CAN-CAN, 5.9, 4 chain-link bolts, stem the big inside corner about 30 yards right of THE FAST WALTZ
*** ALL TANGOED UP, 11B, 5 bolts, overhanging bulge to crack to face
*** BURLY BALLET, 11A, 5 bolts, crux upper arete

Shelter Rock

About 50 yards left of The Dance Wall; the short, steep wall is usually dry on a rainy day)

*** THE BRAT, 11B, 4 bolts, technical
*** WEATHERBEATER, 12A, 4 bolts, sustained
**** TOTAL DENIAL, 13B, 4 bolts, bouldery start out of little roof. shares anchor with JEWEL...
*** JEWEL OF DENIAL, 13A, 4 bolts, comes out of little roof, stick clip first bolt, way powerful!!
*** SHAKIN' AT THE SHELTER, 11B, 3 bolts & anchor, climb up light tan prow on thin edges to crack finish.

The Play Pen

East facing, short, white wall with shallow dihedrals.

Associated walls:

The Play Pen

The Farmyard

The Play Pen

** MAIDEN VOYAGE, 11A, 6 bolts up corner system, traverse right after last bolt to YOUTHANASIA anchor
*** YOUTHANASIA, 11D/12A, 4 bolts, just right of the corner where the east facing wall turns to southeast facing; starts off big boulder
*** DEATH BY CHOCOLATE, 10A, 5 bolts, starts behind the big boulder, up big brown corner, big flake to second bolt
** MARY HAD A LITTLE JAM, 10A, 3 bolts, chimney/stem start to sharp crack
** ROCK'N THE CRADLE, 10B, 3 bolts, crack/dihedral
**** THE PACIFIER, 11D, 4 bolts, bulge to very thin finishing moves
** KID STUFF, 10A, 3 bolts, shares anchors with THE PACIFIER
** PATTY CAKE, 5.9, 3 bolt face/corner
*** BABY FACE, 10C, 4 bolts, fun dihedral and nice pockets
** THE BULL PEN, 10B, 4 red bolts
** HUMPTY-DUMPTY, 10B, 3 bolt dihedral
** TEETER-TOTTER, 10B, 3 bolt dihedral
** MERRY-GO-ROUND, 10A, 3 bolts, brown arete/face
?? 3 more top anchors/projects

The Farmyard

South facing wall just around to the left of the Play Pen.

*** THE OLD GREY MARS (she's still what she used to be!), 11B/C, 3 bolts, white dihedral
** ROOSTER IN THE HEN HOUSE, 10B/C, 4 bolts
** RUNT OF THE LITTER, 5.9, 3 bolts
*** THE NAG, 10C, 6 bolts, crux start, then fun crack moves
**** POT-BELLY PIG, 12B, 6 bolts, use the flat-topped flake to clip the third bolt, then move right on thin face holds; crack to the left is off-route and much easier
** HOLY COW, 11A, 4 bolts
** CHICKEN LITTLE, 11A/B, 3 bolts

Boulder Wall

West facing, short crag in pretty, protected area, most bolted routes have 4 bolts.

No associated walls

**** DOGGIE DOO, 11C, bolts, steep!, diagonals right on good holds to thinner crux finish
** THE HORROR, 11C, bolts, corner, scary third clip!
**** HAPPINESS IS A WARM GUN, 12A, bolts, long reaches and sustained
** HANDS UP, 10B/C, pro-your-own, right leaning crack to top anchors
** DUKES OF HAZARD, 11A, thin pro crack, same anchors as HANDS UP
** YOUR HINE ASS, 11B/C, bolts, good thin face
** LITTLE MISS CAN'T BE WRONG, 10A/B, bolts
** RESISTANCE IS FUTILE, 11C/D, 2 pieces natural pro, pin, 2 bolts, out right side of low roof formarly known as the project MOVIN' OUT
** PATH-ILLOGICAL, 12A, 4 bolts, climb arete right of RESISTANCE... shares last two bolts of RESISTANCE... some fun slapping
*** CAT ON A LEASH, 10D, bolts, up crack, arete finish
** LONESOME DOVE, 11B, bolts up prow
*** COMEBACK KID, 10A, bolts, crack to box corner
** ANCHORS AWAY. 10C, 4 bolts, check out the original anchors in the big block at the base!!
** TERMITE VELOCITY, 10B, 4 bolts

Lots of great bouldering traverses in this sheltered area!!

Gang Fight Wall

A.K.A. The Snake Pit

This short, south facing wall is way steep, protected from the wind, and great climbing.

No associated walls

** WEST SIDE STORY, 11B, 3 bolts
*** CEMENT SHOES, 12A/B, 4 bolts
** HIT MAN, 11C, 4 bolts, shares anchors with CEMENT SHOES
*** THE RUMBLE, 13A, 5 bolts, finger pockets up bulge, fun and athletic moves
** ZIP GUN, 11C, bolts
**** MEAN STREAK, 12D, 4 bolts to cold shut anchors; obvious black water streak
*** GANG FIGHT, 11C, bolts
*** GRAFFITI, 11A, 5 bolts
** CAUGHT IN THE LINE OF FIRE, 10B/C, 4 bolts, groove to the right of GRAFFITI, shares anchors with GRAFFITI
*** DO THE RIGHT THING, 11A, 3 bolts
**** THE SWITCHBLADE, 12B/C, 5 bolts, excellent!!
?? DROOLING, ??, project
** THE KNIFE FIGHT, 11B/C, 5 bolts, several struggles
** GANG BANG, 10B, 3 bolts
** CRACK, 12B, 5 bolts through slot
** TWIN PEAKS, 11B, two variations; share first 2 bolts, then left or right for 2 more bolts (project)
** DRIVE-BY, 11A, 4 bolts, shares anchors with right finish of TWIN PEAKS (project)
** TRIGGER HAPPY, 10B, 4 bolts to anchor

Break in routes, wall curves

*** COCKY YOUNG MEN, 13?, 4 bolts & anchor, hard moves over bulge
*** GRUMPY OLD MEN (AKA JOHN & DAN), 12B/C 4 bolts, about 100 yards east of the Gang Fight Wall; technical brown slab/face, faces west

Wild Onion Wall

East to north facing wall, about 1/4 mile south of Gang Fight Wall.

No associated walls

** MAGIC MUSHROOM, 5.9, 4 bolts up face
** BLACK WIDOW CRACK, 5.7 pro crack
** EARLY BIRD, 10A, 3 bolts on face
*** RED SKIES IN THE MORNING, 11B/C, 5 bolts up red face/finger crack
*** LET IT SHINE, 11B, 6 bolts, move left after first bolt on RISE & WHINE, goes to same anchors
*** RISE & WHINE, 12A, 5 bolts up slab/prow
**** SOMETHING SPECIAL, 10C, 5 bolts, corner to steep face with great pockets
** WILD ONION CRACK, 5.9, east facing pro crack to anchors
*** HOW 'BOUT DEM ONIONS, 10B, 5 bolts, face/arete just right of the crack, shares anchors with the crack climb
?? SNAKE FLAKES, ??, big flake/corner
*** THREE BUCKS A CLIP, 11D, 6 bolts, climb great arete, then finish on prow to the left; using the crack to the left decreases both the grade and route quality!!
** BUTTERCUP, 10C, 5 bolts, seamed off dihedral start to crack/face
*** LOOKING THROUGH A GLASS ONION, 11B, 5 bolts, pretty northeast facing arete
*** MARK'S FLYING TIME, 12A, 1 bolt variation, stick clip a bolt to the left of CRYING TIME and to the right of the arete. Cool throw and climb into CRYING TIME.
*** CRYING TIME, 11C, 5 bolts, left-most climb on north face, same anchors as LOOKING....
** YELLOW BELLS, 10D, 5 bolts, undercling small roof, then climb up prow
** SHOW ME THE WAY, 10D, 6 bolts, face to left crack of box/corners
** ONION RINGS, 10B, 3 bolts up right crack, then same 3 bolt finish as SHOW ME.....
** DOG GONE, 11B/C, 5 bolts, crux moves off the ground to face right of arete
** WALL FLOWER, 12A, 5 bolts, bouldery start!
*** GO JOHNNY GO, 10A, 3 bolts (welded cold shuts) to anchor. Great warm up climb

The Far Side Wall

East-facing crags, about 1/4 mile south of Onion Wall. From the end of the road at the Snake Pit, walk south, staying on top and paralleling the rim, for 10 minutes. When you come to the big side gully, cut down and go south along the base of the rim for another 3 or 4 minutes. Routes listed left-to-right.

Associated Walls:

The Far Side Wall

Deception Cove

Gunfighter Wall

The Far Side Wall

*** BLIZZARD, 11D, 5 bolts, steep white rock
*** TYPHOON, 11C, 5 bolts, same start as BLIZZARD
*** TWIST & POUT, 11C, 5 bolts, thin diagonal crack start
*** GHOULY-MON, 11D, bolts up white face to short steep crack finish
**** GASPER THE FRIENDLY TOAST, 12B, 4 bolts, about 30 yards right of TWIST...,scramble up 15 feet to first bolt, great pockets, way steep
** BOULDERGEIST, 11A, bolts, goes up through crux slot
*** HOLEY MOLEY, 11A, 100 yards right of BOULDERGEIST, 4 bolts up overhung prow. Massacres steepest and best pocket climb??
** GOOD TO THE LAST DROP, 10C, 50 yards right of HOLEY MOLEY, 4 bolts, crux finish
*** NO-DOZE, 11B, 5 bolts, about 5' right of GOOD TO....
*** BULL-DOZE, 11B, 4 bolts, several cruxes
** PUG-NOSE, 11A, project
*** TWINKLE-TOES, 12A, bolts, starts in crux flare
* STACKED DECK, 5.8, 5 bolts, slab start
** HONEY VEE, project, 11A??, up slot
*** CHIP OFF THE OL' BLOCK, 12A, 4 bolts, starts up huge, free standing flake
*** KILLER WAIL. 12A, 3 bolts, hop up on the slab, then try getting on the face to the right
** HUMPBACK, 10D, 6 bolts, same start as KILLER WAIL, then up corner to arete above
** SLIGHT OF HAND, 10A, 6 bolts, hand traverse start
** SEAL CLUBBER, 11D, starts out of low cave, 2 bolts up prow, then angle right and up for 4 more bolts
** SAVE THE WAILS, 11B, 6 bolts, cave start, up and left to same finish as SEAL CLUBBER
** ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT, 11C, 6 bolts, low cave start, then up right-leaning dihedral; may want to place pro (#0.5 Camalot) between bolts #4 and #5
**** THANX FOR THE ANKORS, 12B/C, 6 bolts, starts on flat boulder at edge of low cave, hard moves through the first three bolts, then worthy finish
?? BAD STYLE?? project, 5 bolts
*** AROUND THE WORLD IN 80 WAYS, 11D, 6 bolts, high first bolt, undercling right around flake, then angle left to steep headwall finish
** U-TURN, 10D, same start as AROUND...., then right and up hand crack
** FUNNEL VISION, 11B, 4 bolts, scramble up ramp to high first bolt, struggle up the body-snacher slot until you can escape right to the face
** HILTI GOES TO HEAVEN, 11B, 5 bolts, right-leaning corner
*** CRUNCH TIME, 12A, 5 bolts, steep prow, same finish as HILTI GOES.....
** THE OASIS, 11A, 4 bolts, up inside corner, about 30 yards right of CRUNCH TIME
*** LOST IN THE DESERT, 12A, 4 bolts, chain anchors
*** THE MIRAGE, 11D, 4 bolts, pretty, steep face
** WOOF DIRECT, 11B, 2 bolt direct start, bypasses roof on the left side
**** BIG WOOF. 12A, 6 bolts, wildest horizontal moves at Massacre!!
*** MOMMA DON'T LET YOUR BABIES GROW UP TO BE CLIMBERS! 10A, 4 bolts, starts just right of BIG WOOF
*** YAPPER, 11B, 4 bolts up corner
*** TOP DOG, 11C, 4 bolts, barn-door bulge start
** MAL-A-MUTT, project, 11B??
** POOCH, 11C, 4 bolts, brown bulge start, then angle right up steep face/arete

Deception Cove

About 50 yards west of the south end of the Far Side Wall. It is the tallest section of brown rock near the back of a large shallow alcove.

DRESSED TO DRILL, 11A,
DRILLER INSTINCT, 11A,
REVAMPED, 10C,

Gunfighter Wall

About 100 yards west of the south end of The Far Side Wall. Short steep wall that faces south.

DOC HOLLIDAY, 12B/C, ? bolts, brown arete
**** THE SHOOTIST, 13B, 5 bolts, overhanging white/black streaked face with micro thin holds and pumpy finish, excellent route for Massacre
*** JESSE JAMES, 12B, 4 bolts, overhanging wall links into the top of THE SHOOTIST
*** WILLIAM BONNEY (aka Billy The Kid), 12A, 4 bolts

The Dragon's Den

North facing wall, about 1/4 mile west of Summer Wall.

No associated walls

*** DRAGGIN' LADY, 11C, 6 bolts, boulder up blocky ledge to first bolt, then thin crack to crux face above; crux can be avoided by staying left
*** A FRIGHT IN TINY ARMOR, 11D, bolts, clip the same first bolt as DRAGGIN' LADY, then step right, up hand crack to thin, bulging face, to dihedral finish

The King Wall

West facing wall across the valley from Dance Wall.

No associated walls

** HERE COMES THE SUN, 11A, 4 bolts
** I AM THE WALRUS, 11C, 4 bolts, shares anchors with HERE COMES....
*** BAD DOG, 11D, 3 bolts, technical jamming above low roof
** HARD DAY'S NIGHT, 12B, 3 bolts up hard flare
** COME TOGETHER, 10D, 5 bolts
**KING OF SWING, 12B/C, 3 bolts up brown bulge
** BLACK VELVET ELVIS, 10C, bolts
** BURNING LOVE, 11C/D, bolts, same start as THE KING; steep laybacks, same anchors as BLACK....
*** THE KING, 11A, 5 bolts, good dihedral
** DON'T BE CRUEL, 11B/C, 4 bolts, dihedral, same anchors as THE KING
**** NOW OR NEVER, 12A, 4 bolts up prow, great!!
** THE HOUND DOG, 11A, 5 bolts, thin dihedral
** JAILHOUSE ROCK, 11A, 5 bolts, dihedral, same anchors as THE HOUND DOG
** GRACELAND, 10C, 5 bolts, dihedral to left side of roof
*** GOT MY MOJO WORKING, 12B, 5 bolts up blunt arete
*** LOVE ME TENDER, 11D, 4 bolts, white bulge to roof/layback crack
** THE PARTY, 10B, 4 bolts, same anchors as LOVE...

Game Show Wall

West facing wall about 100 yards south of The King Wall

No associated walls

** WHAT'S MY LINE, 10D, 5 bolts, scramble up ledge to first bolt
** T.S. PRODUCTIONS, 10D, 6 bolts, blocky start, through slot, stem the roof, finishes on the face (don't wimp out right!)
** PASSWORD, 11B, 6 bolts, tough slot start, kinky stand-up, face finish
**** THE GONG SHOW, 12B/C, 8 bolts, stemming crux low leads to harder, sustained face climbing above; excellent!!
** WHAT'S BEHIND DOOR #3?, 11C, 5 bolts, stem start to pumpy block/crack above
** THE PRICE IS RIGHT, 5.8+, 4 bolts, angles right, up corner

Camptown Towers

About 100 yards west of the southwest corner of the Owl Cove are two cute towers, named for the nearby remains of an old camp stove.

Associated walls:

Eastern Tower

Western Tower

Eastern Tower

Four routes on the overhanging north side:

** MUSKET BALLS, 11C, 3 bolts, left route, kind of gritty but groovy
** BEAVER TRAP 12A/B, 3 bolts, take a poke in the hole, then get a good pump gettin' over the hump!
*** MOUNTIN' MEN, 11D, 4 bolts, a rough and rowdy ride!!
** BUFFALOED GALS, 10D, 3 bolts, tricky moves at both ends

Western Tower

Three good routes on the west side

*** POKER FACE, 12A, 4 bolts, you'll crack a smile getting up the slab/arete!
** BUCKSHOT DAN, 11D, 4 bolts, burly bulge!
*** FULL QUIVER, 11C, 4 bolts, shoot up the bulge, then aim for the right-side arete

Royalty Point

This wall is just south of All American Wall, the north facing wall that is in the shade when it is hot.

No associated walls

*** IN SEARCH OF THE HOLY FLAIL, 11D, bolts up long face that goes over small roof half-way up
*** SIR LAUGHS-ALOT, 10D, 8 bolts?, another fun line just right of IN SEARCH OF...
** KING SIGHS, 11B, 7 bolts, great finger crack start
** QUEEN SIGHS, 11B/C, 6 bolts, technical stemming

Mighty-Mite Wall

This wall is about 150 yards south of Royalty Point. Mighty-Mite is short and west facing.

No associated walls

*** FEARLESS FLY, 10C, 4 bolts
** ATOM ANT, 5.9, 3 bolts
** UNDER DOG, 11B, 3 bolts
*** MIGHTY MOUSE, 12A, 4 bolts

The Morgue

Short, steep, southeast facing wall about 100 yards southwest of All American Wall.

No associated walls

*** NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE, 12B/C, 4 bolts & anchor, long first move, height dependent
*** RIGORMORTIS, 13?, 4 bolts & anchor, stick clip first bolt, shares last two bolts and anchor with NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE
*** SEX AFTER DEATH, 12D, 3 bolts, has a long reach
** R.I.P., 10B, 3 bolts, bulge start to fun crack
**** FINAL WRESTING PLACE, 12A, 4 bolts, steep headwall, great climbing!
** MOVIN' ON UP, 10A, 3 bolts, stemming corner
*** PINE BOX DERBY, 11D, 4 bolts, crux finish

The Overlook

This crag faces the Snake River and is down-river from the Owl Cove, about 1/4 mile. Approach by switch-backing up from the river, or contouring in from the Camptown Tower area.

No associated walls

?? top anchors
?? top anchors
** FANCY FEET, 11B, 7 bolts, slab start
*** OUT IN LEFT FIELD, 11D; belay on ledge/ramp, 3 bolt start, then move left to face/blunt arete for great 4 bolt finish
**** RIGHT ON, 12B, shares first 3 bolts with OUT IN LEFT FIELD, then up on great moves for 4 more bolts
*** MAG-NEAT-O!, 10B, 6 bolts up red/brown face

The Outback

The Outback is an east facing wall, upriver from the Wildlife Preserve, directly across the river from Massacre Rocks State Campground; easy 15 minute hike from backside parking, see access map.

No associated walls

** WALLABY WANABEE, 10A, 4 bolts up crack/stem
*** GREAT BARRIER REEF, 11B, 4 bolts, left side of roof
** THE LAND DOWN UNDER, 11A, same start, then move right, over the roof
**WOOLY, 10C, 4 bolts up face/corner to left side of high roof
** G'DAY MATE, 10D, 4 bolts, fun moves over right side of high roof
*** DINGO, 12B, 4 bolts, steep start, thin moves up the steep slab
** THE WALKABOUT, 11C, bolts, hard start, easier above
**** WALTZING MATILDA, 11B, 5 bolts, great moves
*** THE DIGGERY-DOO, 10C, 4 bolt dihedral
*** ANOTHER SHRIMP ON THE BARBIE, 11C, 5 bolts, starts on prow, right of roof
** HOP LIKE A 'ROO, 11B, 4 bolts, starts in dihedral, then move left up pocketed face
** BLOODY YANKS, 11A, 2 bolts to ledge, then 3 bolts up crux arete/face
** STICKY WICKET, 11A, 4 bolts up right-leaning dihedral
** ATTACK OF THE KILLER KOALA, 11B, 4 bolts, starts just left of rubble pile

Forbidden Planet

Forbidden Planet is a north facing wall about 1/2 mile west and a bit south of Camptown Towers.

No associated walls

** THE CROW, 10B, 5 bolts
** RAVE-ON, 10D, 5 bolts, same anchors as THE CROW

75 yard broken section

?? anchor on face, project
** MAN IN THE MOON, 10B, 4 bolts
** THE THING, 11B, bolts up wide crack to prow
**** THE PREDATOR, 11D, 6 bolts, flared crack start
** THE ALIEN, 11A, bolts, jump-start off pointed boulder
*** FORBIDDEN PLANET, 11A/B, 5 bolts, starts in chimney, then left to arete
** FORBIDDEN FRUIT, 5.9, project, shares start with FORBIDDEN PLANET, then right, up face
* EARTH GIRLS ARE EASY, 5.9, 5 bolts, starts right of big chimney
** MEN ARE FROM MARS, 10B, 5 bolts, same anchors as EARTH GIRLS.....
** ROCKET MAN, 11A, 4 bolts up dihedral
*** FLASH GORDON, 10A, 4 bolts up arete, same anchors as ROCKET MAN
** THE FORCE (MAY IT BE WITH YOU!), 11B, 6 bolts
*** G-FORCE, 12A, 4 bolts, overhanging face between two cracks
**** LIFE FORCE, 11C, 4 bolts up pretty, steep face
* FINAL FRONTIER, 11B, 4 bolts
** UFO, 10B, 3 bolts, same anchors as FINAL FRONTIER

Westworld

Stay on Lake Channel Road, past the farm house turnoff. The road goes west, then swings around to the south. At about 4.9 miles beyond the farm house turnoff, take the rough dirt road branching off left. 0.7 miles later, cross a cattle guard. 0.2 miles beyond the cattle guard, take the right fork. A sand hill just beyond may not be passable for 2-wheel drive vehicles. At 1.3 miles beyond the cattle guard, take the middle fork. Park 0.2 miles further, where the poor road plunges down a very sandy hill. Hike the road for about 200 yards to the south-facing crag, which is just north of the road.

For a few years this area consisted of the West World Wall only. In the late winter and early spring of 1999 the Westminster Kennel Club and West Side Ghetto were developed.

Associated walls:

Westminster Kennel Club

West World Wall

West Side Ghetto

Westminster Kennel Club

Southwest facing wall

**** DOG HOUSE, V4, Boulder problem that is an instant classic. Sit start with both hands in lipped hueco. Climb steep wall up left. Top out pulling roof before going around left corner.

10 yards right to next route

**** BARK, 12C, 3 bolts, cool big power route.
**** BITE, 12A, 3 bolts. Head up huecoed crack then veer left. Shares last bolt and anchor with BARK.

25 yards right to next route

*** DOGGED DETERMINATION, 12A/B, 3 bolts up technical, fingery arete. Watch for hidden holds.

30 yards right to next route

*** DOG NELSON, 12A/B, 2 bolts heading up streaked face. Bouldery move off ground. Left crack is off.
*** WAG THE DOG, 12B, 4 bolts. Steep crack with a bulge start. Leave the crack at third bolt and hang on to the top.

West World Wall

**** REFER, 12B, 3 bolts, cool face climbing with neat lift "The Refrigerator Move." This route is on a west facing corner with a tan crack to the right of it.

70 yards right to next route

** LOW RIDER, 11C/D, 4 bolt face with crack to the left, weird moves.

10 yards to next route

*** LOTTA MO!, 12A, 4 bolts, arete, stick-clip first bolt?
**** THE STREAK, 11B, 4 bolts, great, steep jug-haul except for final thin moves
** TNT, 11B, 4 bolt face

20 foot broken section

** THE CHIMP, 12A, 5 bolts, bulge start
** COME AS YOU ARE, 11C, 4 bolts, wide crack start, same anchors as THE CHIMP

40 foot broken section

*** IRON MAN, 11C/D, 4 bolts up wide corner

70 foot broken section

** DOWNWARD SPIRAL, 10B, 3 bolts in chimney
**** JUG-AHOLIC, 5.9, 4 bolts, delicious steep jug haul
** DAZED AND CONFUSED, 10C, 3 bolts, step right after first bolt
***** SPORTS ACTION, 13A, 5 bolts, gently overhanging route with smooth face on bottom to a more featured headwall, long powerful moves, right behind free standing pillar
** THE REAL THING, 11A/B, 5 bolts, left dihedral, just right of free-standing pillar
** POWER-AGE, 11C, 5 bolts
**** DUDES ON LUDES, 11D, 4 bolts, great moves
**** DUDES ON BUTT, 12A, 4 bolts total. The bastard child of DUDES ON LUDES and PUTTY BUTT. Climb and clip first 2 bolts of PUTTY BUTT then head left climbing steep pocketed arete. Clip two more bolts and continue left to the anchors of DUDES ON LUDES.
* PUTTY BUTT, 10C, 3 bolts up wide crack, strange bolt placements
** CARA'S TOY, 10A, 3 bolts, "chicken-plate" start
*** LIVIN' HIGH ON THE HEEL, 11B/C, 4 bolts
*** ONE BAD BUNNY, 12D, 4 bolts total. Climb and clip first 3 bolts of THUMPER then head left around arete cliping 1 link-up bolt using a long draw and then clip last bolt and anchors of LIVIN' HIGH ON THE HEEL.
*** THUMPER, 11D/12A, 5 bolts, much harder (12D?) if you use only the thin crack past the first bolt
** CHUNKY SHUFFLE, 10D, 4 bolts up dihedral
** SIN CITY, 10A, 4 bolts to chain anchors

West Side Ghetto

This wall is about 110 yards east of the furthest right route on the West World Wall. This wall is about 30 feet tall, tan and south facing.

**** SHOTS FIRED, 12C, 3 bolts, climb up left side of overhanging prow. Crack 6 feet left of bolts is off route.
**** PIMPING IS EASY, 12A/B, 3 bolts up cool vertical face with thin left arching seam up it.

90 yards to south across road from PIMPING IS EASY is a steep north facing wall

*** HOMIE DON'T PLAY THAT, 12B, 4 bolts angling up steep huecoed face. Cool finish moves.
*** SKEEZER, 12A, 4 bolts up steep face, angles left.
*** GHETTO SUPERSTAR, 12C/D, 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Hard bulge start L crack is off. Stick clip first bolt.
**** DEAL GONE BAD, 12B/C, 5 bolts starting off block right of first bolt. Sustained climbing arching up and left. Note the two bullet holes 2 feet left of third bolt.

Berlin Wall

Stay on Lake Channel Road 5.6 miles beyond the farm house turnoff. Five routes are on the south facing crag just west of the road.

Associated walls:

Berlin Wall

Erin's Wall

The Phallic

Berlin Wall

HEMISLATTER, 12??, T.R.
OUCH-WICH, 11B/C, bolts
WEST BERLIN, 11C, bolts
EAST BERLIN, 11B, bolts, same anchors as WEST BERLIN
FIRE IN THE HOLE, 10A, bolts
LOOK OUT BELOW!, 5.9, bolts

Erin's Wall

This wall is located about 250 yards left of the Berlin Wall.

***ERIN'S COOL ROUTE, 11B, bolts, starts in large broken dihedral heading left into large hueco, pull steep bulge then finish on slab
***PHARM D CANDIDATE, 11D/12A, bolts, climbs up steep crack to a hard lock off move to easier finish
***DRUG PUSHER, 12B/C, clip two bolts and then finish on the last couple bolts of PHARM D CANDIDATE. Steep bulge hard crank at lip to easier finish

The Phallic

Free standing pillar out in front of Erin's Wall

**ON THE VERGE OF ORGASM, 11D/12A, bolts, devious, balancy climbing up north face of pillar. Starts on slab 15 feet up
****RICHARD HEAD'S ROUTE, 12B, bolts, climbs up west side of pillar. Steep overhanging face up positive crimps
***VIAGRA POPIN, 10B/C, bolts, south facing route up shallow dihedral

Note: This material is distributed free of charge. It may be reproduced only for non-profit purposes. If you paid for it you got ripped off!

Original Guide By: Dan Spurlock, now maintained by Bruce A. Black