Altho
I was but a girl of 11 years I distinctly remember many
things connected with that far-off time when all of our
western country was a wilderness... We were six months in
crossing the plains in ox-wagons.
In
our home, in Illinois, in the early fifties, there was much
talk and excitement over the news of the great gold discoveries
in California -- and equally there was much talk concerning
the wonderful fertile valleys of Oregon Territory -- an
act of Congress giving to actual settlers 640 acres of land.
My
father, John Tucker Scott, with much of the pioneer spirit
in his blood, became so interested that he decided to "Go
West"....The spring of 1852 ushered in so many preparations,
great work of all kinds. I remember relations coming to
help sew, of tearful partings, little gifts of remembrances
exchanged, the sale of the farm, the buying and breaking
in of unruly oxen, the loud voices of the men, and the general
confusion.
The
first of April came -- 1852. The long line of covered wagons,
so clean and white, but oh so battered, torn and dirty afterward:
The loud callings and hilarity: many came to see us off.
We took a last look at our dear homestead as it faded from
our view. We crossed the Illinois River on a ferry. We looked
back and saw our old watch dog (his name was Watch) howling
on the distant shore. Father had driven him back, saying,
"Go back to Graadfather, Watch!" But he never
ate afterwards, and soon died. We stopped at St, Joseph,
Missouri, to get more provisions. We had never before seen
Negroes, and all along this state we saw many negro huts,
and went into one to see some little negro babies. My remembrance
of the state was muddy roads, muddy water and a sort of
general poverty -- of course this was over 70 years ago.
When
we crossed into Nebraska, it seemed such a wide stretch
of plain. We got our first sight of Indians -- a file of
Indians were passing along, single file. They were the Pottowattamies,
dressed in buckskins, beads, and leading their ponies. An
open country was now before us. The melting snows had made
the streams high, the roads nearly impassable. The Platte
river, swift and swollen, didn't seem to have any banks.
We had heard of the danger of quicksands. My father had,
with the help of his drivers, raised the beds of his wagons,
so as not to dip water ... When everything was in readiness
all of us were tucked inside of the wagons. My father put
me, last of all, inside the back end of the last wagon,
told me to keep still and not be afraid. The loud voices
of the drivers as they yelled and whipped up the oxen, the
jogging of the wagons through the surging waters and over
the quicksands, the memory is with me yet. When they got
over the river, all were accounted for, but they couldn't
find me. Finally I was pulled out from under the bows, nearly
smothered. There were nine of us children, ranging from
four years to my eldest sister about 19.
My
mother kept the two youngest with her always in "Mother's
wagon". Her health was not very good, and she had dreads
and fears, but hoped she would live to get to Oregon. Fate
willed it otherwise, and being frail and weary with the
long journey, she fell a victim to the cholera, so prevalent
that year on the plains, leaving her sorrowing family to
grieve for her. When we reached Wyoming, there in the Black
Hills, this side of Ft. Laramie, the passing of that dear,
beloved mother was a crushing blow to all our hopes. We
had to journey on, and leave her in a lonely grave -- a
feather bed as a coffin, and the grave protected from the
wolves by stones heaped upon it. The rolling hills were
ablaze with beautiful wild roses -- it was the 20th of June,
and we heaped and covered mother's grave with the roses
so the cruel stones were hid from view. Her grave is lost.
No one was ever able to find it again.
...
The old emigrant trail hold many hard experiences. Coming
to the Snake River and for many miles along, it was impossible
to reach it to get water for the oxen. We had to travel
all night at times. On one occasion... the camp was made
after dark, and there was such a stench in the air. Early
daylight found us camped close between two dead oxen, on
one side, and a dead horse on the other -- so we had to
move before breakfast.
...
About 2 miles above the great American Falls we were able
to get the cattle down to drink. It so happened that after
the yokes of the oxen were removed and the oxen driven into
the water, an old headstrong bull plunged into the river
and swam across, the rest of the cattle following, except
two cows that our man were able to keep back. Our company
was in great peril.... My father, generally equal to any
emergency, decided that any one or more of the men who were
good swimmers, should go above our camp, swim over and drive
the cattle back. This was attempted by two young men, one
of whom swum over first, on one of our mares; the other
was drowned, and as we with agonized eyes watched the stream
we saw the white face of our old mare "Sukey"
bobbing up and down in the boiling waters. She was such
a loved old mare that we could not bare to leave her at
home in Illinois. A third man tried and got safely over.
We could see his naked form over the river among the hot
burning rocks. It was impossible for him alone to drive
the cattle back. My father made a mighty effort to get across.
Then he ordered the calking of one of the wagon beds to
make a boat, and in this, three more paddled over and took
some clothing to cover the poor sunburnt men on the rocks
-- he was over there in that awful predicament for three
days; his skin all peeled off, and he nearly lost his mind
from his awful experience. They got the cattle safely over
the river again, but the two cows that stayed behind ate
of something poisonous and died during the night.
On
and on we journeyed -- averaging 15 miles a day over cactus,
sagebrush, hot sand. Everybody's shoes gave out and we bartered
with Indians for moccasins, but that didn't help much about
the prickly pears. One by one the oxen fell by the way.
We came to Burnt River -- a most desolate country. Here
our baby brother Willie fell sick. It was in the heat of
August. The train was halted, that the darling child of
4 years could be better cared for, but he became unconscious
and passed away. The soil here was thin and full of rocks.
My poor father, broken-hearted, had the men cut a cavity
out of the solid rock jutting out of Burnt River Mountain,
and here the little form was sealed beside where the only
living thing was --- a little juniper tree. My brother Harvey
found it, twenty years later, and he peeled some of the
bark off of the juniper tree and brought it back to my father.
My father had carved Willie's name on the tree.
August
passed. We were nearing the Cascade Mountains. The oxen
were worn out, and the wagons were in poor condition to
cross' the mountains. Some wagons had to be left; some of
the oxen were poisoned eating mountain laurel. Our provisions
were exhausted by this time, and for three days we had only
salal berries and some soup made by thickening water, from
flour shaken from a remaining flour sack, My uncle Levi
Caffee, who was a great joker, looked at the poor mess and
said to his wife, "Why Ellen, ain't there a little
bread or something." "Oh no," she said, "we
are all starving together." It so happened a man overtook
us on horseback, and father bought some of the flour he
had in a sack behind his saddle. He paid $1.00 a pound.
It proved to be bitter with mildew and unfit to eat. My
sister, having charge of the two smaller children, and my
aunt, whose youngest was seven, saved and hid in their pockets
same biscuits they from time to time, doled out to the three
littlest children.
We
came to the old Barlow Road, and a station called Barlow's
Gate, in the Cascade Mountains, where we found provisions,
and actually some fruit -- apples and peaches and plenty
of bread. It was not long now till we reached the valley
settlements and found relatives who had came the year before.
Before
we reached Oregon City, my father was fortunate enough to
buy two pounds of butter. The hungry crowd was so great
that before we smaller ones had our turn at the improvised
table, the butter had all been eaten up. There were six
of us smaller children who did not get a taste of butter,
and the thought of that rankled in us for years.
It
was my duty to keep up the loose stock in crossing the plains,
and I was given charge of an old sorrel mare who had one
eye. Her name was "Shuttleback" on account of
the shape of her back. She was a big powerful animal, and
when she'd get a whiff of an Indian she would kick and plunge
and many a time would throw me of. One day we had travelled
long in the heat and both Shuttleback and I needed water.
I was about a mile behind the train, and off at the side
of the road a grove of willows was growing. It looked like
water might be there. There was, a little tributary of the
Snake River, so I gladly got off the saddle that had no
horn on it, and first let the mare drink. It was a steep
place. The mare began to plunge and I soon saw she was in
quicksand. I held on tightly to her rein, yelled with all
my might, knowing there was a man behind me also driving
stock. He heard me and rushed to my assistance, telling
me to hold on, and not be afraid, he would bring help. He
rushed ahead and brought back my father and three other
man, and with ropes and a long pole pried her out of the
quicksand and floated her down the stream where she finally
landed on her feet. I fully expected punishment, but my
father just picked me up, sat me down on the wet, muddy
saddle, slapped the mare and said, "Now, go on!"
Poor old Shuttleback got lost in the Cascade mountains one
night. About a year afterwards, a man reported her roaming
near Mr. Hood. My father went after her and brought her
back with a fine black colt he named Black Democrat.
Then
we reached Laurel Hill, in the Cascade mountains. Oh that
steep road! I know it was fully a mile long. We had to chain
the wagon wheels and slide the wagons down the rutty, rocky
road. My aunt Martha lost one of her remaining shoes, it
rolled down the mountainside. I can hear her now as she
called out in her despair, "Oh, me shoe, me shoe!"
How can I ever get along?" So she wore one shoe and
one moccasin the rest of the journey.
As
we started down the road my father said: "Jump on the
wheel and hang on, Fanny!" It was an awfully dangerous
thing to do and he didn't realize what he was telling her
to do. Poor sister Margaret fell, and rolled down and down.
When she picked herself up, Uncle Levi was there with his
humor, "Maggie, ain't this the damndest place you ever
saw?" "Yes, it is." "Well, you swore,
and I'm going to tell your father."
When
we came to Ft. Walla Walla, we saw a crowing rooster on
a rail fence. Oh, how we all cried .... There we stood,
a travel-worn, weary, heart and homesick group, crying over
a rooster crowing.
One
day our "Salon Wagon" as we called the wagon that
served as a parlor, overturned. My sister Fanny (Mrs. Mary
Cook), as soon as she could extricate herself, poked her
head out of the hooded wagon and cried, "Oh Lord, come
here quick." My uncle came running up and said, "Jenny,
hadn't you better call on some of the company,'