Starting from Monroe County, Iowa, Saturday, April 9, 1853,
and Ending Near Millwaukie, Oregon Territory, September
17, 1853.
Saturday,
April 9th, 1853 -- STARTED FROM HOME about 11 oclock
and traveled 8 miles and camped in an old house; night cold
and frosty.
Sunday,
April 10th -- Cool and pleasant, road hard and dusty. Evening
Came 18 miles and camped close in to the Fulkersons
house.
Monday,
April 11th -- Morn. Cloudy and signs of rain, about 10 oclock
it began to rain. Atnoon it rains so hard we turn out and
camp in a school house after traveling 11 miles; rains all
the afternoon and all night, very unpleasant. Jefferson
and Lucy have the mumps. Poor cattlebawled all night.
Tuesday,
April 12th -- Warm and sultry. Still cloudy, road very muddy.
Traveled 10 miles andcamp on Soap creek bottom. Creek bank
full; have to wait till it falls.
Wednesday,
April 13th -- Fair weather. Have to overhaul all wagons
and dry things. Evening.Still in camp.
Thursday,
April 14th -- Quite cold. Little ewes crying with cold feet.
Sixteen wagons all gettingready to cross the creek. Hurrah
and bustle to get breakfast over. Feed the cattle. Hurrah
boys,all ready, we will be the first to cross the creek
this morning. Gee up Tip and Tyler, and away wego, the sun
just rising. Evening -- We have traveled 24 miles today
and are about to camp in alarge prairie without wood. Cold
and chilly; east wind. The men have pitched the tent and
arehunting something to make a fire to get supper. I have
the sick headache and must leave to boysto get it themselves
the best they can.
Friday,
April 15th -- Cold and cloudy, wind still east. Bad luck
last night. Three of our horses got away. Suppose they have
gone back. One of the boys has gone back after them, and
we aregoing on slowly. Evening - Henry has come back with
the horses all right again. Came 17 milestoday. Roads very
bad and muddy. Cold and clouds all day. It is beginning
to rain; the boys have pitched the tent and I must get supper.
Saturday,
April 16th -- Camped last night three miles east of Chariton
Point on the prairie. Madeour beds down in the tent in the
wet and mud. Bed clothes nearly spoiled. Cold and cloudy
this morning, and every body out of humour. Seneca is half
sick. Plutarch has broke his saddle girth.Husband is scolding
and hurrying all hands (and the cook), and Almira says she
wished she washome and I say ditto. Home Sweet Home.
Evening - We passed a small town this morningcalled Chariton
Point. The sun shone a little this afternoon. Came 24 miles
today, and have pitched our tent in the prairie again, and
have some hay to put under our beds. Corn one dollarper
bushel, feed for our stock cost 16 dol. to night.
Sunday,
April 17th -- It is warm and pleasant; we are on our way
again, traveling over some very pretty rolling prairie.
Corn is up to three dollars a bushel. Travel 20 miles today,
and have camped in the prairie. No wood to cook with. Have
to eat cold supper. Have the good luck tofind corn at 80
cents a bushel.
Monday,
April 18th -- Cold; breaking fast the first thing; very
disagreeable weather; wind east,cold and rainy, no fire.
We are on a very large prairie, no timber can be seen as
far as the eye canreach. Evening - Have crossed several
bad streams today, and more than once have been stuck in
the mud. We passes Pisgah this afternoon, and have just
crossed Grand river, and will camp in alittle bottom. Plenty
of wood and we will have a warm supper, I guess. Came 22
miles today.
My head aches, but the fire is kindled and I must make some
tea, that will help it, if not cure it.
Tuesday,
April 19th -- Still damp and cloudy; corn very scarce and
high. Traveled 20 miles and camp.
Wednesday,
April 20th -- Cloudy. We are creeping along slowly, one
wagon after another, the same old gait; and the same thing
over, out of one mud hole into another all day. Crossed
abranch where the water run into the wagons. No corn to
be had within 75 miles. Came 18 miles and camp.
Thursday,
April 21st -- Rained all night; is still raining. I have
just counted 17 wagons travelingahead of us in the mud and
water. No feed for our poor stock to be got at any price.
Have tofeed them flour and meal. Traveled 22 miles today.
Friday,
April 22nd -- Still bad weather; no sun; traveling on, mile
after mile in the mud, mud.Traveled 24 miles and cross Nishnabotna
and camp on the bank of it.
Saturday,
April 23rd -- Still in camp, it rained hard all night, and
blew a hurricane almost. All the tents were blown down,
and some wagons capsized. Evening -- It has been raining
hard al lday; everything is wet and muddy. One of the oxen
missing; the boys have been hunting him allday. Dreary times,
wet and muddy, and crowded in the tent, cold and wet and
uncomfortable inthe wagon. No place for the poor children.
I have been busy cooking, roasting coffee, etc.,today, and
have come into the wagon to write this and make our bed.
Sunday,
April 24th -- The rain has ceased and the sun shines a little;
must stay in camp and drythe bed clothes. No feed for the
stock, but what little grass they can pick. Afternoon --
Found the ox, and lost our muley cow (hornless). Must wait
and find her.
Monday,
April 25th -- Rather cold, but the sun shines once more.
Still feeding the cattle andhorses on flour. One of our
horses badly foundered. On our way again, at last, found
our cow with a young calf; had to leave the calf behind;
then travel on a while and come to a very badsidling bridge
to cross over a creek. Came 18 miles.
Tuesday,
April 26th -- Cold and clear; found corn last night at 2
dollars a bushel. Paid 12 dollars for about half a feed
for our stock. I can count 20 wagons winding up the hill
ahead of us.Traveled 20 miles and camp.
Wednesday, April 27th -- A nice spring morning; warm and
pleasant. The road is covered withwagons and cattle. Paid
two dollars 40 cts. for crossing a bridge. Traveled 25 miles
today andcamp on a creek called --- about 10 miles from
the bluffs.
Thursday,
April 28th -- Still in camp, pleasant weather; we will stay
here few days to rest andrecruit our cattle, wash, cook,
etc.
Friday,
April 29th -- Cool and pleasant; saw the first Indians today.
Luey and Almira afraid and run into the wagon to hide. Done
some washing and sewing.
Saturday, April 30th -- Fine weather; spent this day in
washing, baking, and overhauling the wagons. Several more
wagons have camped around us.
Sunday, May 1st -- Still fine weather; wash and scrub all
the children.
Monday, May 2nd -- Pleasant evening; have been cooking,
and packing things away for an earlystart in the morning.
Threw away several jars, some wooden buckets, and all our
pickles. To unhandy to carry. Indians came to our camp every
day, begging money and something to eat.Children are getting
used to them.
Tuesday,
May 3rd -- Fine weather. Leave Loudenback and his team this
morning and are on ourway again. Travel 6 or 7 miles and
camp on Pony Creek, here Plutarch is taken sick.
Wednesday,
May 4th -- Weather fair; travel 3 miles today, passed through
Kanesville and campin a lane, not far from the Missouri
River, and wait our turn to cross. No feed for the stock,
haveto buy flour at 3 per hundred to feed them.
Thursday,
May 5th -- We crossed the river this morning on a large
steam boat called the Hindoo,after a great deal of Hurrahing
and trouble to get the cattle all aboard. One ox jumped
overboard and swam across the river, and came out like a
drowned rat. The river is even with its banks,timber on
it, which is mostly cottonwood, is quite green. Costs us
15 dollars to cross. Afterbiding Iowa a kind farewell we
travel about 8 miles and camp among the old ruins of the
Mormon towns. We here join another company, which will make
in all 24 men, 10 wagons, anda large drove of cattle. Have
appointed a captain, and are now prepared to guard the stock,
fourmen watch 2 hours and then call up four more to take
their places, so by that means no person can sleep about
the camp. Such a wild noisy set was never heard.
Friday,
May 6th -- Pleasant. We have just passed the Mormon graveyard.
There is a greatnumber of graves on it. The road is covered
with wagons and cattle. Here we passed a train of wagons
on their way back, the head man had drowned a few days before,
in a river called Elkhorn, while getting some cattle across,
and his wife was lying in the wagon quite sick, andchildren
were mourning for a father gone. With sadness and pity I
passed those who perhaps a few days before had been well
and happy as ourselves. Came 20 miles today.
Saturday,
May 7th -- Cold morning, thermometer down to 48 in the wagon.
No wood, only enough to boil some coffee. Good grass for
the stock. We have crossed a small creek, with anarrow Indian
bridge across it. Paid the Indians 75 cents toll. My hands
are numb with cold.Evening -- Travel 23 miles and camp on
Elkhorn bottom close to river. It is very high and dangerous
to cross.
Sunday,
May 8th -- Sunday morning. Still in camp waiting to cross.
There are three hundred ormore wagons in sight and as far
as the eye can reach, the bottom is covered, on each side
of the river, with cattle and horses. There is not ferry
here and the men will have to make one out of thetightest
wagon-bed (every company should have a waterproof wagon-bed
for this purpose).Everything must now be hauled out of the
wagons head over heels (and he who knows where tofind anything
will be a smart fellow), then the wagons must be all taken
to pieces, and then bymeans of a strong rope stretched across
the river, with a tight wagon-bed attached to the middleof
it, the rope must be long enough to pull from one side to
the other, with men on each side ofthe river to pull it.
In this way we have to cross everything a little at a time.
Women and children last, and then swim the cattle and horses.
There were three horses and some cattle drowned while crossing
this place yesterday. It is quite lively and merry here
this morning andthe weather fine. We are camped on a large
bottom, with the broad, deep river on one side of usand
a high bluff on the other.
Monday,
May 9th -- Morning cold, within 4 degrees of freezing; we
are all on the right side ofthe river this morning. It took
the men all day yesterday to get everything across, which
they didall safe by working hard. We are now on our way
again. Evening - We have driven a good waysout off the road
to find grass and camp after traveling 22 miles.
Tuesday,
May 10th -- Cold; thermometer down to thirty in the wagon;
ground froze last night.Came 20 miles and camp.
Wednesday, May 11th -- Evening. It has been very dusty yesterday
and today. The men all havetheir false eyes on to keep the
dust out. We are traveling up Platte River bottom, on the
northside. We have been near the river several times; it
is a beautiful river about a mile across, full ofislands
and sand bars; as far as the eye can reach the road is covered
with teams. Plutarch is welland able to drive. Came 23 miles.
Thursday,
May 12th -- Thursday Noon -- Beautiful weather, but very
dusty. We are camped onthe bank of Loup Fork, awaiting our
turn to cross. There are two ferry boats running, and anumber
of wagons ahead of us, all waiting to cross. Have to pay
three dollars a wagon for threewagons and swim the stock.
traveled 12 miles today. We hear there are 700 teams on
the roadahead of us. Wash and cook this afternoon.
Friday,
May 13th -- It is thundering and bids fair for rain. Crossed
the river very early this morning before breakfast. Got
breakfast over after a fashion. Sand all around ankle deep;
windblowing; no matter, hurry it over. them that eat the
most breakfast eat the most sand. We are all moving again
slowly. Evening -- Came 24 miles today. Finding we can get
along faster andmore comfortable alone, we left all company
this morning, and have camped alone. Our company passed
us while at supper and said 'Good evening,' and camped a
little ahead of us.
Saturday,
May 14th -- Had a fine rain last night; laid the dust, cool
and the sun shines this morning. We see very few Indians.
Did not see more than a dozen Pawnees. We are now in the
Sioux country. Passed the sand bluffs. Traveled 2 miles
and were obliged to stop and camp onthe prairie near a large
pond of water, on account of the high winds, and some rain.
Winds sohigh that we dare not make a fire, impossible to
pitch the tent, the wagons could hardly stand thewind. All
that find room are crowded into the wagons; those that cant,
have to stay out in thestorm. Some of the boys have lost
their hats.
Sunday,
May 15th -- Cool and pleasant after such a storm. Travel
18 miles and camp.Monday, May 16th -- Evening -- We have
had all kinds of weather today. This morning was dry,dusty
and sandy. This afternoon it rained, hailed, and the wind
was very high. Have been traveling all the afternoon in
mud and water up to our hubs. Broke chains and stuck in
the mudseveral times. The men and boys are all wet and muddy.
Hard times, but they say that misery loves company. We are
not alone on these bare plains, it is covered with cattle
and wagons. Wehave come to another muddy branch, we will
cross it and find a camping place. Good grass for the stock,
and that is one good luck we have. Travel about 20 miles.
The wind is getting higher.
Tuesday,
May 17th -- We had a dreadful storm of rain and hail last
night and very sharplightning. It killed two oxen for one
man. We have just encamped on a large flat prairie, when
the storm commenced in all its fury and in two minutes after
the cattle were taken from the wagons every brute was gone
out of sight, cows, calves, horses, all gone before the
storm like somany wild beasts. I never saw such a storm.
The wind was so high I thought it would tear thewagons to
pieces. Nothing but the stoutest covers could stand it.
The rain beat into the wagons so that everything was wet,
in less than 2 hours the water was a foot deep all over
our campgrounds. As we could have no tents pitched, all
had to crowd into the wagons and sleep in wet beds, with
their wet clothes on, without supper. The wind blew hard
all night, and this morning presents a dreary prospect surrounded
by water, and our saddles have been soaking in it all nightand
are almost spoiled. Our cow Rose cam up to be milked; had
little or nothing for breakfast.The men took the cows
tracks and found the stock about 4 miles from camp. Start
on and travelabout 2 miles and come to Dry Creek, so called
because it is dry most of the year. I should call it Water
Creek now, as it is out of its banks and we will have to
wait until it falls. No wood within8 miles. Raining by spells.
Wednesday,
May 18th -- Still in camp; very high winds again last night,
blew some of the tentsover; cold and windy this morning
and not a stick of wood to make a fire; trying to dry clothes
between showers. the creek is falling.
Thursday,
May 19th -- Clear. All are getting ready to cross the creek.
Afternoon - Crossed DryCreek this morning and have traveled
10 miles and came to Wood Creek, and are up a stumpagain;
it is also very high and we will have to cross it as we
did Elkhorn, in a wagon bed, andswim the stock. Just got
things packed away nicely this morning, now they must all
be tumbledout again. well, there is plenty of wood and I
will spend the afternoon in cooking.
Friday,
May 20th -- Crossed Wood Creek last night and got loaded
up a little after dark anddrove out 3 or 4 miles, where
we found a good camping place. We are now traveling between
Platte River and Wood Creek; plenty of water and grass,
not much wood, and that cotton wood.Traveled 21 miles.
Saturday,
May 21st -- We have just crossed Deep Dry Creek. It had
a little muddy water in it.Very warm; it is the first the
cattle have lolled. Thermometer up to 92 in wagon; good
grass, bad water, and no wood; came 20 miles.
Sunday
May 22nd -- Fine weather. Crossed branches and mud holes
all day. Traveled about 18 miles.
Monday,
May 23rd -- The road is covered with droves of cattle and
wagons -- no end to them.Dry and dusty all day. Traveled
20 miles and camp on the bank of Platte River. Plenty of
wood,by wading across the islands for it.
Tuesday, May 24th -- Stay in camp today, to wash and cook,
as we have a good camping ground,plenty of wood and water,
and good grass. Weather pleasant. I had the sick headache
all night,some better this morning; must do a days
work. Husband went back a piece this morning insearch of
our dog, which he found with some rascals who were trying
to keep him.
Wednesday,
May 25th -- It is raining. We have got our washing and some
cooking done, andwith a bunch of wood tied on each wagon
(for the purpose of making coffee as we will not see wood
again soon), we are ready to start as soon as the rain holds
up. Evening -- It has been cold and rainy all day. Only
traveled 12 miles and camped.
Thursday,
May 26th -- It rained all the forenoon, cleared off at noon;
we started and traveledabout 14 miles over marshy, wet ground.
While the teams were creeping along, I went up on a high
bluff and had a splendid view of the Platte and her beautiful
timbered islands (chiefly cottonwood and willow).
Friday,
May 27th -- Cloudy and wind east. We are now traveling along
the edge of the Platte. Itis so wide here you can just see
timber on the other side. It must be 2 miles across. Traveled
20miles today.
Saturday,
May 28th -- Traveled 18 miles today over very sandy ground.
Passed a lot of menskinning a buffalo. We got a mess and
cooked some of it for supper. It was very good and tender.
It is the first we have seen dead or alive.
Sunday,
May 29th -- Quite warm. Came 15 miles, very sandy, and bad
traveling for the cattle.It will be 175 miles before we
see timber again. We have a little dry wood along to make
coffeeand tea.
Monday,
May
30th -- It has been cloudy and cool today and better roads.
Traveled 23 miles.
Tuesday,
May 31st -- Evening -- Traveled 25 miles today. When we
started this morning there were two large droves of cattle
and about 50 wagons ahead of us, and we either had to stay
poking behind them in the dust or hurry up and drive past
them. It was no fool of a job to bemixed up with several
hundred head of cattle, and only one road to travel in,
and the drovers threatened to drive their cattle over you
if you attempted to pass them. They even took out their
pistols. Husband came up just as one man held his pistol
at Wilson Carl and saw what the fusswas and said, Boys,
follow me, and he drove our team out of the road entirely,
and the cattleseemed to understand it all, for they went
into the trot most of the way. The rest of the boysfollowed
with their teams and the rest of the stock. I had rather
a rough ride, to be sure, but was glad to get away from
such a lawless set, which we did by noon. The head teamster
did his bestby whipping and hollowing to his cattle. He
found it of no use and got up into his wagon to takeit easy.
We left some swearing men behind us. We drove a good ways
ahead and stopped to restthe cattle and eat some dinner.
While we were eating we saw them coming. All hands jumpedfor
their teams, saying they had earned the road too dearly
to let them pass again, and in a few moments we were all
on the go again. Had been very warm today. Thermometer at
98 in thewagon at one oclock. Towards evening there
came up a light thunderstorm which cooled the air down to
60. We are now within 100 miles of Fort Laramie.
Wednesday,
June 1st -- It has been raining all day long and we have
been traveling in it so as tobe able to keep ahead of the
large droves. The men and boys are all soaking wet and look
sadand comfortless. The little ones and myself are shut
up in the wagons from the rain. Still it willfind its way
in and many things are wet; and take us all together we
are a poor looking set, and allthis for Oregon. I am thinking
while I write, 'Oh, Oregon, you must be a wonderful country.'
Came 18 miles today.
Thursday,
June 2nd -- It has cleared off pleasant after the rain and
all hands seem bright and cheerful again. We are going along
the same old gait. Evening -- Traveled 27 miles today. Passed
Court House Rock and Chimney Rock, both situated on the
lower side of the river, and have been in sight for several
days. We have camped opposite Chimney Rock.
Friday,
June 3rd -- We had another hard blow and rain last night,
looks like some clearing off this morning. Evening -- Came
21 miles today and have camped about opposite Scotts
Bluffs.Water very bad -- have had to use out of Platte most
of time. It is very high and muddy.
Saturday,
June 4th -- More rain last night, is raining some today.
The roads are very bad,nothing but mud and water. Came 16
miles.
Sunday,
June 5th -- Very warm. Slow traveling. Several of the oxen
have sore necks, caused by traveling in the rain. Came 18
miles today and are camped by the Platte, where we have
wood and plenty of grass for the stock.Monday, June 6th
-- Still in camp, husband and myself being sick (caused,
we suppose, by drinking the river water, as it looks more
like dirty suds than anything else), we concluded to stay
in camp and each take a vomit, which we did and are much
better. The boys and myself have been washing some today.
The prickly pear grows in great abundance along this Platte
Riverroad.
Tuesday,
June 7th -- Rained some last night; quite warm today. Just
passed Fort Laramie, situated on the opposite side of the
river. This afternoon we passed a large village of Sioux
Indians. Numbers of them came around our wagons. Some of
the women had moccasins and beads, which they wanted to
trade for bread. I gave the women and children all the cakes
I had baked. Husband traded a big Indian a lot of hard crackers
for a pair of moccasins and after we had started on he came
up with us again, making a great fuss, and wanted them back
(they had eaten part of the crackers). He did not seem to
be satisfied, or else he wished to cause us some trouble,
or perhaps get into a fight. However, we handed the moccasins
to him in a hurry and drove away from them as soon as possible.
Several lingered along watching our horses that weretied
behind the wagons, no doubt with the view of stealing them,
but our folks kept a sharp lookout till they left. We had
a thunderstorm of rain and hail and a hard blow this afternoon.Have
traveled 18 miles and are now camped among the Black Hills.
They are covered with cedarand pine wood, sandstone, limestone
and pure water.
Wednesday,
June 8th -- It is a pleasant morning after the rain. Everything
looks fresh and green.We are traveling through the Black
Hills, over rocks and stones. There is some splendid scenery
here. Beautiful valleys and dark, green clad hills with
their ledges of rock and then far away overthem you can
see Laramie Peak, with her snow-capped top. Evening -- Came
16 miles today.Had another shower this afternoon and have
camped in a lovely spot, plenty of wood, water, and good
grass.
Thursday,
June 9th -- Came 18 miles today. Weather warm. Had a slight
shower in the afternoon. Camped without wood or water, but
good grass.
Friday,
June 10th -- It has been very warm today. thermometer up
to 99 at noon. Traveled 21miles over a very rough road,
and have camped on the bank of Platte River. Wild sage brush
toburn, which makes a very good fire when dry. Very poor
grass. Here, one of our hands, left up(Benjamin Houghes).
Saturday,
June 11th -- The last of the Black Hills we crossed this
afternoon, over the roughestand most desolate piece of ground
that was ever made (called by some the Devils Crater).
Not a drop of water, nor a spear of grass to be seen, nothing
but barren hills, bare broken rock, sand anddust. Quite
a contrast to the first part of the hills. We reached Platte
River about noon, and our cattle were so crazy for water
that some of them plunged headlong into the river with their
yokeson. Traveled 18 miles and camp.
Sunday,
June 12th -- We are traveling on in the sand and dust. It
is very dusty and the road iscovered with teams and droves
of cattle. The grass is very poor, mostly gone to seed.
Evening --Came about 17 miles and have camped near the bank
of the Platte. The boys have driven thecattle on to an island
where they can get grass, and I have just washed the dust
out of my eyes so that I can see to get supper.
Monday,
June 13th -- This has been a long hard days travel.
Came 30 miles through sand and dust, and have camped opposite
the old upper ferry on the Platte. Tomorrow we will come
to thefirst poison water. There will be no more good water
for about 25 miles; we will also leave Platte River in the
morning for good.
Tuesday,
June 14th -- We started this morning at day break to travel
our long, dry, dusty daystravel. the dust and sand
has been very bad. Passed the Avenue Rock this afternoon.
Traveled 31 miles and are about to camp. There is not less
than 150 wagons camped around us, but wehave left most of
the droves behind, and no end to the teams. Had a great
deal of trouble to keepthe stock from drinking the poison
or alkali water. It is almost sure to kill man or beast
who drink it.
Wednesday,
June 15th -- Came 19 miles today; passed Independence Rock
this afternoon, andc rossed Sweetwater River on a bridge.
Paid 3 dollars a wagon and swam the stock across. The river
is very high and swift. There are cattle and horses drowned
there every day; there was onecow went under the bridge
and was drowned, while we were crossing, belonging to anothercompany.
The bridge is very rickety and must soon break down. We
are camped 2 miles thisside of the bridge, near the river.
Thursday,
June 16th -- We are now traveling up Sweetwater Valley between
two mountains, one of them being covered with snow. Sweetwater
is a clear, cool, and beautiful stream, and close toits
margin lies the road. This morning we passed the Devils
Gate -- came 16 miles, and havecamped on the banks of Sweetwater.
No wood or grass on this side of the river.
Friday,
June 17th -- Concluded to stay in camp and rest the cattle
a day or tow. Swam the cattle and horses across the river
where there is plenty of good feed. We also get our wood
from theother side. The best swimmers go over and cut a
light cedar log and swim back with it. Havebeen washing
and cooking today. The mosquitoes are very bad here. Cut
the first cheese today.
Saturday,
June 18th -- Still in camp, overhauling the wagons, cooking,
sewing patches, etc., etc.Had a very hard blow and a slight
sprinkle of rain this afternoon.
Sunday, June 19th -- On our way again. Traveling in the
sand and dust. Sand ankle deep -- hard traveling. Came 18
miles and camp on the bank of Sweetwater again, and swim
the cattle over to feed.
Monday,
June 20th -- Came 22 miles today, passed good water once;
passed a good deal ofpoisoned water, and have camped in
the mountains. Weather warm and pleasant.
Tuesday,
June 21st -- We have traveled over a very rough, rocky road
today; over mountains close to banks of snow. Had plenty
of snow water to drink. Husband brought me a large bucketof
snow and one of our hands brought me a beautiful bunch of
flowers which he said wasgrowing close to the snow, which
was about 6 feet deep. Traveled 16 miles today, and havecamped
on the mountain about 7 miles from the summit. We are traveling
through the South Pass. The Wind River Mountains are off
to our right. Among them is Fremonts Peak. They look
romantic covered with snow.
Wednesday,
June 22nd -- Very cold. Water froze over in its buckets;
thermometer down to 30;the boys have on their overcoats
and mittens. Evening -- It snowed a little through the day.
theroad has been very dusty, but smooth and level as a turnpike.
Came 18 miles and camped aboutone-half mile from Pacific
Springs. We left Sweetwater this morning.
Thursday,
June 23rd -- Cold again this morning. Water froze over.
Came 27 miles and campedon the bank of Little Sandy River
after dark.
Friday,
June 24th -- Came from Little Sandy to Big Sandy, 7 miles,
and will camp for a day ortwo, to rest the stock; good grass
and water here. Henry Miller left us this morning. We startedwith
5 hands and have only two left.
Saturday,
June 25th -- Still in camp washing, cooking and sewing,
etc. Weather very pleasant.
Sunday,
June 26th -- We are on our way again traveling in the dust,
dust. We must go 17 miles or more without water or grass.
Evening -- All hands come into camp tired and out of heart.Husband
and myself sick. No feed for the stock. One ox lame. Camp
on the bank of Big Sandy again.
Monday,
June 27th -- Cold, cloudy, and very windy -- more like November
than June. I am not well enough to get out of the wagon
this morning. The men have just got their breakfast overand
drove up the stock. It is all hurry and bustle to get things
in order. Its children milk the cows, all hands help
yoke these cattle, the d--ls in them. Plutarch answers
I cant, I must hold the tent up, it is blowing
away. Hurrah boys. Who tied these horses? Seneca,
dont stand therewith your hands in your pocket. Get
your saddles and be ready. Evening-- Traveled 18 milestoday
and have camped on the bank of Green River and must wait
our turn to cross on a ferryboat. No grass for the poor
cattle. All hands discouraged. We have taken in two new
hands today, which will make us full handed again.
Tuesday,
June 28th -- Still in camp waiting to cross. Nothing for
the stock to eat. As far as theeye can reach it is nothing
but a sandy desert and the road is strewn with dead cattle,
and thestench is awful. One of our best oxen is too lame
to travel; have to sell him for what we can get,to a native
for 15 dollars (all along this road we see white men living
with Indians; many of them have trading posts; they are
mostly French and have squaw wives). Have to yoke up our
muleycow in the oxs place.
Wednesday,
June 29th -- Cold and cloudy. The wagons are all crowded
up to the ferry waiting with impatience to cross. There
are 30 or more to cross before us. Have to cross one at
a time.Have to pay 8 dollars for a wagon; 1 dollar for a
horse or cow. We swim all our stock. Evening-- We crossed
the river about three oclock then traveled 10 miles
and camp close to Slate Creek.It is cold enough to sit by
the fire.
Thursday,
June 30th -- Traveled 20 miles today and have camped in
the mountains near a clear,cold stream of good water; grass
aplenty and dry sage brush top burn; the children have climbed
the mountain to see the sunset.
Friday, July 1st -- We had a fine shower last night, which
laid the dust and freshened the grass. Itis cold this morning,
almost freezing. We are now ascending a steep mountain.
Now we are atthe top. All around us we can see the snowy
mountains, and down below us is a beautiful greenvalley
and a small Indian village. Evening -- Traveled 18 miles
today. Crossed Hams Fork ofGreen River this afternoon
and have camped half way up a steep mountain.
Saturday,
July 2nd -- We have been traveling up and down steep mountains
all day. Came about15 miles and camped within 2 miles of
Bear River, close to a good spring.
Sunday,
July 3rd -- Bad luck this morning. Soon after starting one
of our best oxen took sick,and in less than an hour he was
dead. Suppose he was poisoned with alkali water, or weeds.Turned
out the odd ox and started on. Crossed Smiths Fork
of Bear River. Paid a dollar a wagon. It is a very rapid
stream, and hard to swim stock over. We then came over some
very rough ground, the worst we have seen -- nothing but
rocks to travel over, close under a steep mountain. came
10 miles, and camped near the foot of a steep mountain;
water and grass plenty,also wood. We will stay here till
after the Fourth. Two of our oxen quite lame.
Monday,
July 4th -- It has been very warm today. Thermometer up
to 110, and yet we can seebanks of snow almost within reach.
I never saw mosquitoes as bad as they are here. Chat (a
son)has been sick all day with fever, partly caused by mosquito
bites. The men have been shoeing one of the lame oxen, the
first one they have tried to shoe. The other ones
foot is much too swollen.
Tuesday,
July 5th -- We are camping on top of a mountain at noon
to rest awhile. It is warm but there is a good breeze up
here. Chatfield is sick yet; had fever all night. Evening
-- Crossed two creeks today, one with a bridge over it.
Paid one dollar a wagon to cross. Travel 15 miles over avery
hilly road and camp near the Sulphur Springs situated on
a small prairie surrounded bymountains.
Wednesday,
July 6th -- Travel 20 miles today and camp near a spring
(in the Mosquito Valley).There is plenty of good grass all
along Bear River Valley. traded a cow and calf today for
a steerto yoke up with the old one. And find after using
him half a day that we have been cheated as hecant
stand it to travel.
Thursday,
July 7th -- We have traveled 20 miles today, all up hill
and down. It has been very warm and dusty. We have camped
about half a mile off from the road close to a splendid
spring of limestone water in a beautiful pine and cedar
grove. While I am writing, we are having a fine little shower,
which is a great treat. Our poor dog gave out with the heat
and sand so that hecould not travel. The boys have gone
back after him. It has cleared off and I must get supper.
Friday,
July 8th -- Very pleasant. Found our dog last night. We
have just left the soda springs,regaling ourselves on soda
water. This part of the country is very pretty and quite
romantic. Wecame then on a few miles and stopt at the Steam
Boat Springs -- a great curiosity, situated nearthe bank
of Bear River. It spouts up about a foot and a half, out
of a hole in the solid rock. It isabout warm enough to wash
in. I put my handkerchief in to wash, and it drew it under
a moment.It came up again, and I took better care of it.
Afternoon -- After traveling 14 miles, we have camped near
a spring to rest -- a lame man, a sick man, a lame ox, and
a lame dog, etc. Grassplenty. Left Bear River this forenoon.
Saturday,
July 9th -- We passed the forks of the emigrants road
yesterday noon, after leaving the California road. We find
the grass much better, as most of the large trains are bound
forCalifornia. Noon -- Came 10 miles and have camped on
Shoshone Creek; in this part of the country the water is
all hard, not fit to wash with. Our thermometer broke here.
Sunday,
July 10th -- Travel 9 miles this forenoon, and came to park
near creek; paid dollar forcrossing it, on a very rough
bridge; then we stopped awhile to noon at a small bottom,
then travel 8 miles up a mountain, and camp near the top,
close to a very large spring of clear, cold water,running
from under a snowy mountain.
Monday,
July 11th -- We will now descend the mountain; pleasant
weather, but the roads very dusty. Evening -- We have forded
Ross Creek, and one more small creek today. Came 15 milesand
camp by a small creek.
Tuesday,
July 12th -- Came 12 miles, crossed Ross Creek again this
morning, on a bridge, paid 25 cents a wagon, and we have
just crossed Portneuf River on a ferry boat, paid 2 dollars
a wagon, and swam the stock. We are now insight of the three
Buttes. Evening -- Came 10 milesthis afternoon crossed
Panack Creek, and have camped this side of it. We are now
traveling down the bank of Snake River.
Wednesday,
July 13th -- We have just been spending an hour at the American
Falls on Snake River. There are several falls on this river.
The river is wide and deep, and very swift in places.We
should cross it, and keep down on the other side, but there
is no ferry boat, and we have noway to cross it, therefore
we must keep down on this (south) side, with very little
grass, while onthe other side there is plenty. Travel 22
miles and camp.
Thursday,
July 14th -- It is dust from morning until night, with now
and then a sprinkling ofgnats and mosquitoes, and as far
as the eye can reach it is nothing but a sandy desert, covered
with wild sage brush, dried up with heat; however it makes
good firewood. Evening -- I have not felt well today and
the road has been very tedious to me. I have ridden in the
wagon and taken care of Chatfield till I got tired, then
I got out and walked in the sand and through stinking sagebrush
till I gave out; and I feel thankful that we are about to
camp after traveling 22 miles, on thebank of Raft River,
about dark; river high.
Friday,
July 15th -- Last night I helped get supper and went to
bed too sick to eat any myself.Had fever all night and all
day. It is sundown and the fever has left me. I am able
to creep around and look at things and brighten up a little;
the sun has been very hot today. Remained in camp nearly
all day, waiting for the river to fall. We forded the river
late this afternoon by raising the wagon beds a foot, to
prevent the water from running in. We have encamped a halfmile
from the same place; the bottom here is full of poison water.
Saturday,
July 16th -- We came 16 miles over a very rough, rocky road,
without water, then rested 2 hours and then traveled 4 miles
more, and have camped near Swamp Creek.
Sunday,
July 17th -- We are traveling through the Digger Indians
country, but have not seen any yet. We crossed Swamp Creek
this morning, and Goose Creek this afternoon. Goose Creek
isalmost straight down, and then straight up again. Several
things pitched out of the wagons intothe Creek. Travel over
some very rocky ground. Here Chat fell out of the wagon,
but did not gethurt much. Came 25 miles today, and camp
after dark near Snake River.
Monday,
July 18th -- Traveled 22 miles. Crossed one small creek
and have camped on one called Rock Creek. It is here the
Indians are so troublesome. This creek is covered with small
timber and thick underbrush, a great hiding place; and while
in this part of the country the menhave to guard the stock
all night. One man traveling ahead of us had all his horses
stolen andnever found them as we know of. (I was very much
frightened while at this camp. I lay awakeall night. I expected
every minute we would be killed. However, we all found our
scalps on inthe morning.) There are people killed at this
place every year.
Tuesday,
July 19th -- Came 15 miles. Crossed Rock Creek about noon
in all the dust; we had anice little shower, which laid
the dust and made the traveling much better. Camped about
threeoclock close to a canyon on Rock Creek.
Wednesday,
July 20th -- Dry traveling today. No grass; water is very
scarce. Stopped at noon towater at a very bad place on Snake
River, one and a half miles or more down a steep bank orprecipice.
The cattle looked like little dogs down there, and after
all the trouble of getting thepoor things down there, they
were so tired they could not drink, and were obliged to
travel backand take the dusty road again. We are still traveling
on in search of water, water.
Thursday,
July 21st -- Very warm, traveled 25 miles yesterday and
camped after dark one-halfmile from Snake River. Crossed
Salmon River about noon today and are now traveling down
Snake River, till we reach the ferry. Afternoon -- Came
12 miles and have camped close to theferry. Our turn will
come to cross in the night. Have to pay 4 dollars a wagon,
cross on a ferryboat, and swim the stock, which is a very
hard job, on such a large river. Indians all around ourwagons.
Friday,
July 22nd -- Crossed the river before daybreak and found
the smell of carrion so badthat we left as soon as possible.
The dead cattle were lying in every direction. Still there
were agood many getting their breakfast among all the stench.
I walked off among the rocks, while themen were getting
the cattle ready; then we drove a mile or so, and halted
to get breakfast. Here Chat had a very narrow escape from
being run over. Just as we were all getting ready to start,Chatfield,
the rascal, came around the forward wheel to get into the
wagon, and at that momentthe cattle started and he fell
under the wagon. Somehow he kept from under the wheels andescaped
with only a good, or I should say, a bad scare. I never
was so much frightened in mylife. I was in the wagon at
the time, putting things in order, and supposed Francis
was taking careof him. After traveling 6 miles, we have
encamped for the day, to rest the cattle; plenty of goodgrass.
Afternoon, rained some.
Saturday,
July 23rd -- We took a fresh start this morning with everything
in order, for a good days drive. Travel about 5 miles
and here we are, up a stump again, with a worse place thanever
we had before us to be crossed, called Bridge Creek. I presume
it takes its name from a natural bridge which crosses it.
This bridge is only wide enough to admit one person at a
time. A frightful place, with the water roaring and tumbling
ten or fifteen feet below it. This bridge iscomposed of
rocks, and all around us, it is nothing but a solid mass
of rocks, with the waterripping and tearing over them. Here
we have to unload all the wagons and pack everythingacross
by hand, and then we are only on an island. There is a worse
place to cross yet, a branch of the same. Have to stay on
the island all night, and wait our turn to cross. There
are a good many camped on the island, and there are camps
on each side of it. There is no chance to pitch a tent,
and this island is a solid rock, so we must sleep the best
way we can, with the water roaring on each side of us. The
empty wagons, cattle, and horses have to be taken further
up the riverand crossed by means of chains and ropes. The
way we cross this branch is to climb down about6 feet on
rocks, and then a wagon bed bottom will just reach across,
from rocks to rocks. It must then be fastened at each end
with ropes and chains, so that you can cross on it, and
then we climbup the rocks on the other side, and in this
way everything has to be taken across. Some take their wagons
to pieces and take them over in that way.
Sunday,
July 24th -- Crossed the river this morning and got loaded
up, then traveled 16 miles without water; then we came to
a creek of poison water in the bottom. Did not dare to stay
there. Came on a mile and a half to a spring in the bottom,
and have camped. Have to keep watch all night.
Monday, July 25th -- Bad luck this morning to start with.
A calf took sick and died before breakfast. Soon after starting
one of our best cows was taken sick and died in a short
time.Presume they were both poisoned with water or weeds.
Left our poor cow for the wolves andstarted on. Evening
-- It has been very warm today. Traveled 18 miles and have
camped right ontop of a high, round sand hill, a fine mark
for the Indians. We have also got onto a place that isfull
of rattlesnakes. One of our oxen sick.
Tuesday,
July 26th -- Very warm and terribly dusty. We ascended a
long and tedious mountain this forenoon; crossed one little
creek about noon, all the water we have seen today. It is
nearnight and we are still traveling on, and urging our
poor, tired cattle on till we find water. It looks as though
it never rained in this region, it is so dry and dusty.
We have been jumping and joltingover rocks all day and are
now about to camp near a creek of clear, cold water. Traveled
17miles.
Wednesday,
July 27th -- Another fine cow died this afternoon. Came
15 miles today, and have camped at the boiling springs,
a great curiosity. They bubble up out of the earth boiling
hot. Ihave only to pour water on to my tea and it is made.
There is no cold water in this part.(Husband and myself
wandered far down this branch, as far as we dare, to find
it cool enough tobathe in. It was still very hot, and I
believe I never spent such and uneasy sleepless night in
mylife. I felt as if I were in the bad place. I still believe
it was not very far off. I was glad when morning came and
we left.
Thursday,
July 28th -- Filled all the empty vessels last night with
water to cool for the stock.Have traveled 12 miles today
and have camped in the prairie 5 or 6 miles from water.
Chat isquite sick with scarlet fever.
Friday,
July 29th -- Came 18 miles over some very rocky road and
camped by a spring. Chat issome better.
Saturday,
July 30th -- Traveled 16 miles over a very hilly, but good
road and camped by a stream of water and good grass. It
has been very warm today.
Sunday, July 31st -- Cool and pleasant, but very dusty.
Came 12 miles and camped about one oclock not very
far from Boise River. We will stay here a day or two and
rest and revive our cattle.
Monday,
August 1st -- Still in camp, have been washing all day,
and all hands have had all thewild currants they could eat.
they grow in great abundance along this river. There are
threekinds, red, black, and yellow. This evening another
of our best milk cows died. Cattle are dyingoff very fast
all along this road. We are hardly ever out of sight of
dead cattle on this side ofSnake River. This cow was well
and fat an hour before she died. Cut the second cheese today.
Tuesday,
August 2nd -- Traveled 12 miles today and have just camped
about one-half mile fromthe river. Plenty of good grass.
Thursday, August 4th -- We have just passed Boise or Reeds
River. It is deep fording, but, byraising the wagon beds
about a foot, and being very careful, we are all landed
safe and about tocamp not far from the bank of the river.
Have traveled 20 miles today. Have also seen a goodmany
Indians and bought fish of them. They all seem peaceable
and friendly.Friday, August 5th -- We have just bid the
beautiful Boise River, with her green timber and rich currants;
farewell, and are now on our way to the ferry on Snake River.
Evening -- Traveled 18 miles today and have just reached
Fort Boise and camped. Our turn will come to cross sometime
tomorrow. There is one small ferry boat running here, owned
by the Hudsons Bay Company. Have to pay three dollars
a wagon. Our worst trouble at these large rivers is swimming
the stock over. Often after swimming half way over the poor
things will turn andcome out again. At this place, however,
there are Indians who swim the river from morning tillnight.
There is many a drove of cattle that could not be got over
without their help. By paying them a small sum, they will
take a horse by the bridle or halter and swim over with
him. the rest of the horses all follow and by driving and
hurrahing to the cattle they will almost always follow the
horses, sometimes they fail and turn back. This Fort Boise
is nothing more than three new buildings, its inhabitants,
the Hudsons Bay Company officials, a few Frenchmen,
some half-naked Indians, half-breeds, etc.
Saturday,
August 6th -- Got all safe across the river by noon, and
it being 15 miles to next water,we are obliged to camp here,
near the river, till morning. Camps all around us.
Sunday,
August 7th -- Traveled 15 miles, and have just reached Malheur
River and camped.The roads have been very dusty, no water,
nothing but dust and dead cattle all day, the air is filled
with the odor from dead cattle.
Monday,
August 8th -- We have to make a drive of 22 miles, without
water today. Have our cans filled to drink. Here we left,
unknowingly, our Lucy behind, not a soul had missed her
untilwe had gone some miles, when we stopped a while to
rest the cattle; just then another train drove up behind
us, with Lucy. She was terribly frightened and so were some
more of us when we learned what a narrow escape she had
run. She said she was sitting under the bank of the river,when
we started, busy watching some wagons cross, and did not
know we were ready. And Isupposed she was in Mr. Carls
wagon, as he always took charge of Francis and Lucy and
I tookcare of Myra and Chat. When starting he asked for
Lucy and Francis said 'She is in Mother'sWagon,' as she
often went there to have her hair combed. It was a lesson
to all of us. Evening --It is near dark and we are still
toiling on till we find a camping place. The little ones
have curleddown and gone to sleep without supper. Wind high,
and it is cold enough for a great coat andmittens.
Tuesday,
August 9th -- Came into camp last night at nine oclock,
after traveling 19 miles,with enough water in our cans to
make tea for supper, men all tired and hungry. I groped
around in the dark and got supper over, after a fashion.
We are now on our way to Birch Creek, which istwo and a
half miles from our camp. Halted at Birch Creek and got
breakfast, then started on andtraveled as far as Burnt River
- 17 miles - and camped.
Wednesday,
August 10th -- Traveled 12 miles; crossed Burnt River 5
times and have camped on the bank of it, about 4 oclock
in the afternoon to repair the wagons. Evening cold.
Thursday,
August 11th -- Frost this morning. Three of our hands got
discontented and left thismorning, to pack through. I am
pleased, as we shall get along just as well without them
and I shall have three less to wait on. Evening -- Came
10 miles today and crossed Burnt River fourtimes and have
camped near a small spring, about three miles from the river.
Friday,
August 12 -- Came 12 miles today. Crossed Burnt River twice.
Lost one of our oxen.We were traveling slowly along, when
he dropped dead in the yoke. We unyoked and turned outthe
odd ox, and drove around the dead one, and so it is all
along the road, we are continually driving around the dead
cattle, and shame on the man who has no pity for the poor
dumb brutes that have to travel and toil month after month
on this desolate road. I could hardly help sheddingtears,
when we drove around this poor ox who had helped us along
thus far, and have given ushis very last step. We have camped
on a branch of Burnt River.
Saturday,
August 13th -- Traveled 5 miles this morning, then stopped
to water at a spring; it is near night. We are still traveling
on, through dust and sand and over rocks, until we find
water.Have none since morning.
Sunday,
August 14th -- Camped last night after dark after traveling
15 miles, in a large bottom,near some puddles of very poor
water. Found out this, that it needed straining. Afternoon
--After traveling 10 miles we have camped on the bank of
Powder River about one oclock. Another ox sick. We
will rest here until morning.
Monday,
August 15th -- traveled 11 miles (Powder River is a small,
clear stream), and havecamped on a small creek, 12 miles
from the Grand Ronde Valley.
Tuesday, August 16th -- Slow traveling on account of our
oxen having sore feet and the roads being very rocky. Passed
the Sylvest Springs. Traveled 12 miles and now we have a
long, steep,rocky hill to descend into the valley. It is
a mile long, very steep and very rocky. From the top ofthis
hill, we could see a band of Indian horses in the valley
below, and being mostly white, they looked like a flock
of chickens. After reaching the bottom of this hill with
a good deal of difficulty, we find ourselves in a most lovely
valley, and have camped close to a spring, whichruns through
it. There are also two or three trading posts here, and
a great many fine looking Cayuse Indians riding around on
their handsome ponies.
Wednesday,
August 17th -- Crossed the Grand Ronde Valley, which is
8 miles across, and have camped close to the foot of the
mountains. Good water and feed plenty. There are 50 or more
wagons camped around us. Lucy and Myra have their feet and
legs poisoned, which gives me agood deal of trouble. Bought
some fresh salmon from the Indians this evening, which is
quite atreat to us. It is the first we have seen.
Thursday,
August 18th -- Commenced the ascent of the Blue Mountains.
It is a lovely morningand all hands seem to be delighted
with the prospect of being so near the timber again, after
the weary months of travel on the dry, dusty sage plains,
with nothing to relieve the eye. Just nowthe men are hallooing
to their echo rings through the woods. Evening -- Traveled
10 miles todayand down steep hills, and have just camped
on the banks of Grand Ronde River in a dense forestof pine
timber - a most beautiful country.
Friday,
August 19th -- Quite cold morning, water frozen over in
the buckets. Traveled 13 miles,over very bad roads, without
water. After looking in vain for water, we were about to
give up as it was near night, when husband came across a
company of friendly Cayuse Indians about tocamp, who showed
him where to find water, half mile down a steep mountain,
and we have all camped together, with plenty of pine timber
all around us. The men and boys have driven the cattle down
to water and I am waiting for water to get supper. This
forenoon we bought a few potatoes from an Indian, which
will be a treat for our supper.
Saturday,
August 20th -- Cold all day. Came 11 miles and camped about
two oclock in a pine and fir forest close to a small
stream of poor water. Grass very scarce. Fifteen miles more
and we will leave the Blue Mountains.
Sunday,
August 21st -- Cold. After a great deal of trouble to find
all our cattle, we got started about 11 oclock and
traveled 4 miles, then stopped to noon, not far from a spring;
then traveled3 or 4 miles and turned out to let the cattle
feed an hour. Feed very scarce. Evening -- We aredescending
a long mountain. It is nearly dark. Came 12 miles and still
traveling.
Monday,
August 22nd -- I began to think last night we would never
get to the foot of the mountain. It was 4 miles long. However,
we came into camp after nine oclock at night and find
ourselves in the Umatilla Valley, a warmer climate, more
like summer. No feed for the poorstock. We are now traveling
on the Nez Perce plains. Warm weather and very dusty. Came
12miles and camped at a spring one-half mile from the Umatilla
River. Grass all dead, but thestock eat it greedily. For
fuel, willows and some little sage brush.
Tuesday,
August 23rd -- Very warm. Grass all dead. The dust is worse
than ever today. I can hardly see the tongue cattle.
Wednesday, August 24th -- Traveled 20 miles yesterday and
came into camp after dark on the banks of the Umatilla River.
Numbers were camped around us. No feed for the poor stock.
It isquite warm. Came 5 miles this morning and have just
stopped at the Indian Agency 1 to fill ourcans at the well.
Evening -- After filling our cans with water, we came on
and stopped at noon,and let the cattle pick dry grass, as
it is too warm to travel in the middle of the day, then
came 10miles and crossed Butter Creek, then came a mile
up the creek and have encamped near a goodspring and as
there is no feed near the road, the men have driven the
stock a mile and a half out,to dry bunch grass.
Thursday,
August 25th -- We will remain in camp today to wash, and
rest the cattle. It is 18miles to the next water. Cotton
wood and willows to burn. We will start this evening and
travel a few miles after dark. It is too hot and dusty to
travel in the heat of the day. Camped about nine oclock
in the dry prairie.
Friday,
August 26th -- Came 6 miles last night and 12 today, and
have just reached a smallspring, where we can water only
one ox at a time by dipping up buckets full. This spring
seems to rise out of the ground and then fall again right
off. We will camp here and drive the cattle a mile to feed;
a good many Indians camped around us. Bought salmon of them
for supper and breakfast. Sage brush to burn.
Saturday,
August 27th -- Came 5 miles and stopped at the well spring
about noon and watered the stock, then drove them out to
grass. This well spring is not much better than a mud hole.
We will remain in camp until evening. Our cattle are weak,
and in order to save them, we travel slowly and rest during
the heat of the day. Fifteen miles to the next water.
Sunday,
August 28th -- Started last night about sun down and drove
5 miles and found tolerably good grass to turn cattle out
to. Started very early this morning and drove as far as
Willow Creek, 10 miles and camped again till evening. Plenty
of willow to burn, but no running water.It is standing in
holes along the creek and very poor. It will be 22 miles
before we get wate ragain.
Monday,
August 29th -- Traveled 10 miles last night and 12 today,
and have camped about one oclock on Rock Creek. Weather
very warm and dust bad.
Tuesday,
August 30th -- Traveled 7 miles this morning. Crossed Rock
Creek 4 times and have just crossed John Day River and encamped
on the bank of it about one oclock, not far from atrading
post. Here husband sold and ox that was unable to work for
25 dollars. We will makethe best of this river, as it is
25 miles to the next. Our camp is in a very pretty valley
or glade, surrounded by hills, and our cattle and horses
are feeding among the hills. A mile or two distantand close
to us lies the river, a beautiful, clear stream running
over a gravelly bottom.
Wednesday,
August 31st -- Still in camp. It was too stormy to start
out last evening, as intended.The wind was very high all
the afternoon, and the dust and sand so bad we could hardly
see.Thundered and rained a little in the evening. It rained
and blew very hard all night. Is still raining this morning,
the air cold and chilly. It blew so hard last night as to
blow our buckets andpans from under the wagons, and this
morning we found them (and other things which were notsecured)
scattered all over the valley. One or two pans came up missing.
Everything is packedup ready for a start. The men folks
are out hunting the cattle. The children and myself are
out shivering around in the wagons, nothing for fires in
these parts, and the weather is veryd isagreeable. Evening
-- Got a late start this morning. traveled about a mile,
and were obliged tostop and turn the cattle out on account
of rain. At noon it cleared off. We ate dinner and started.Came
up a long and awful rock hollow, in danger every moment
of smashing our wagons. After traveling 7 miles, we halted
in the prairie long enough to cook supper. Split up some
of the deckboards of our wagons to make fire. Got supper
over, and are on our way again. Cloudy and quite cold all
day.
Thursday,
September 1st -- Traveled 8 miles last night and encamped
in the prairie without wood or water. Afternoon -- After
traveling 14 miles and descending a long hill, we have encamped
not far from the Columbia River. Made a nice dinner of fried
salmon. Quite a numberof Indians were camped around us,
for the purpose of selling salmon to the emigrants.
Friday,
September 2nd -- Came 5 miles this morning, and are now
crossing Fall (or Deschutes itis called here) River on a
ferry boat, pay 3 dollars a wagon and swim the stock. This
river is very swift and full of rapids. Evening - Traveled
5 miles this afternoon. Ascended and descended along steep
hill; crossed Olneys Creek and have camped on the
hill close to it. Cold weather and no wood. Pretty good
grass.
Saturday,
September 3rd -- Cool and pleasant. Had a fine shower last
night which laid the dust and makes the traveling much better.
Here husband (being run out of money) sold his sorrel mare
(Fan) for a hundred and twenty five dollars. Evening - Traveled
17 miles today. Crossed Olneys (or the 15 Mile Creek)
7 times and have encamped on the banks of it. We are neartimber
once more.
Sunday,
September 4th -- Clear and bright. Had a fine view of Mount
Hood, St. Helens and Jefferson. Traveled 15 miles today;
water. After descending a long, steep, rocky and very tedious
hill, we have camped in a valley on the bank of Indian Creek,
near some Frenchmen, whohave a trading post. There are also
a good many Indians encamped around us. No feed for the
cattle tonight. 15 milesmore
will take us to the foot of the mountains.
Monday,
September 5th -- Passed a sleepless night last night as
a good many of the Indians camped around us were drunk and
noisy and kept up a continual racket, which made all hands
uneasy and kept our poor dog on the watch all night. I say
poor dog, because he is nearly wornout with traveling through
the day and should rest at night; but he hates and Indian
and will notlet one come near the wagons if he can help
it; and doubtless they would have done somemischief but
for him. Ascending a long steep hill this morning, which
was very hard on the cattle, and also on myself, as I thought
I should never get to the top, although I rested two or
three times. After traveling two or three miles over some
very pretty rolling prairie, we have turned our cattle out
to feed a while, as they had nothing last night. Evening
- Traveled about 12 miles today, and have encamped on a
branch of the Deschutes, and turned our cattle and horsesout
to tolerably good bunch grass.
Tuesday,
September 6th -- Still in camp, washing and overhauling
the wagons to make them as light as possible to cross the
mountains. Evening - After throwing away a good many things
and burning up most of the deck boards of our wagons so
as to lighten them, got my washing and cooking done and
started on again. Crossed two branches, traveled 3 miles
and have campednear the gate or foot of the Cascade Mountains
(here I was sick all night, caused by my washing and working
too hard).
Wednesday,
September 7th -- First day in the mountains. Came 16 miles
today; crossed Deschutes, or a branch of it, 4 times and
have encamped on the bank of it. Bought flour at 20 cents
per pound to feed the stock.Thursday, September 8th -- Traveled
14 miles over the worst road that was ever made, up anddown,
very steep, rough and rocky hills, through mud holes, twisting
and winding round stumps,logs and fallen trees. Now we are
on the end of a log, now over a big root of a tree; now
bounce down in a mud hole, then bang goes the other side
of the wagon, and woe be to whatever isinside. There is
very little chance to turn out of this road, on account
of timber and fallen trees,for these mountains are a dense
forest of pines, fir, white cedar or redwood (the handsomest
timber in the world must be here in these Cascade Mountains).
Many of the trees are 300 feet high and so dense to almost
exclude the light of heaven, and for my own part I dare
not look tothe top of them for fear of breaking my neck.
We have camped on a little stream called Sandy.No feed for
the stock except flour, and by driving them a mile or so,
they can get a little swamp grass or pick brush.
Friday,
September 9th -- Came eight and a half miles. Crossed Sandy
4 times; came over corduroy roads, through swamps, over
rocks and hummocks, and the worst road that could be imagined
or thought of, and have encamped about one oclock
in a little opening near the road.The men have driven the
cattle a mile off from the road to try and find grass and
rest them till morning. We hear the road is still worse
ahead. there is a great deal of laurel growing here,which
will poison the stock if they eat it. There is no end to
the wagons, buggies, yokes, chains,etc. that are lying all
along this road. Some splendid good wagons just left standing,
perhapswith the owners names on them; and many are the poor
horses, mules, oxen, cows, etc. that arelying dead in these
mountains. Afternoon - Slight shower.
Saturday,
September 10th -- Pleasant. Noon - We have just halted in
a little valley at the foot ofBig Laurel Hill to rest ourselves
and the poor, weary cattle an hour or so. We dare not rest
long in these mountains, for fear of a storm, which would
be almost certain to kill all our stock,although the poor
things need it bad enough, after what they have gone through
with this forenoon. It would be useless for me with my pencil
to describe the awful road we have just passed over (let
fancy picture a train of wagons and cattle passing through
a crooked chimneyand we have Big Laurel Hill). After descending
several bad hills, on called Little Laurel Hill,which I
thought is as bad as could be, but in reality it was nothing
to this last one called BigLaurel. It is something more
than half mile long, very rocky all the way, quite steep,
winding, sideling, deep down, slippery and muddy, made so
by a spring running the entire length of theroad, and this
road is cut down so deep that at times the cattle and wagons
are almost out of sight,with no room for the drivers except
on the bank, a very difficult place to drive, also dangerous,
and to make the matter worse, there was a slow poking train
ahead of us, which kept stopping every few minutes, and
another behind us which kept swearing and hurrying our folks
on, and there they all were, with the poor cattle all on
the strain, holding back the heavy wagons on the slippery
road. The men and boys all had their hands full, and I was
obliged to take care of myself and little ones as best I
could, there being no path or road except the one where
the teams traveled. We kept as near the road as we could,
winding round the fallen timber and brush, climbing over
logs, creeping under fallen timber, sometimes lifting and
carrying Chat. To keep from smelling the carrion, I, as
others, holding my nose. (Must quit, as all hands are getting
ready to travel again.) Evening - Came 10 miles today. Crossed
Sandy River once and have camped by it about dark. Fed the
stock flour and cut down alders for them to browse on.Nothing
else for them, poor things. Kept them yoked and tied all
night (there I was sick all nightand not able to get out
of the wagon in the morning).
Sunday,
September 11th -- Traveled 12 miles today. Crossed Sandy
(or Zigzag) River once and have encamped close to a spring
branch and drove the cattle one-half mile from the road
to feedon swamp grass. The road has been a very little better
today, although we came down some verybad hills, also through
mud holes.
Monday,
September 12th -- Came 12 miles today. Crossed Sandy once,
ascended three verysteep hills passed over the (they call
it here) Devils Backbone. We also passed over some
pretty country today. We stopped to noon at a very beautiful
spot. It was prairie interspersed withstrips of pretty fir
timber, with their branches sweeping the ground. To the
left of us was a deep ravine, with a clear stream of water
meandering through it (this pretty place was along toward
the end of the old fellows backbone). Passed one new
made claim this evening, and have encampednear a small stream
of water. It is three miles to the first farm.
Tuesday,
September 13th -- Ascended three steep, muddy hills this
morning. Drove over some muddy, miry ground and through
mud holes, and have just halted at the first farm to noon
andrest awhile and buy feed for the stock. Paid $1.50 per
hundred for hay. Price of fresh beef 16and 18 cts. per pound,
butter ditto, 1 dollar, eggs 1 dollar a dozen, onions 4
and 5 dollars perbushel, all too dear for poor folks, so
we have treated ourselves to some small turnips at the rateof
25 cents per dozen. Got rested and are now ready to travel
again. Evening - Traveled 14miles today. Crossed Deep Creek
and have encamped on the bank of it, a very dull lookingplace;
grass very scarce. We may not call ourselves through they
say; and there we are inOregon, making our camp in a n ugly
bottom, with no home, except our wagons and tent. It is
drizzling and the weather looks dark and gloomy. Here old
man Fuller left us and Wilson Carl remains.
Wednesday,
September 14th -- Still in camp. Raining and quite disagreeable.
Thursday,
September 15th -- Still in camp and still raining. I was
sick all night.
Friday,
September 16th -- Still in camp. Rain in the forenoon and
clear in the afternoon.Washed some this forenoon.
Saturday,
September 17th -- In camp yet. Still raining. Noon - It
has cleared off and we are all ready for a start again,
for some place we dont know where. Evening - Came
6 miles and haveencamped in a fence corner by a Mr. Lamberts,
about 7 miles from Milwaukie. Turn our stockout to tolerable
good feed.A few days later my eighth child was born. After
this we picked up and ferried across theColumbia River,
utilizing skiff, canoes and flatboat to get across, taking
three days to complete.Here husband traded two yoke of oxen
for a half section of land with one-half acre planted topotatoes
and a small log cabin and lean-to with no windows. This
is the journeys end.(Finis)
-------
Joel
Knight was born in the parish of Cuckfield County of Sussex,
England, April 5, 1808, and he was the son of Simeon and
Frances Knight of that place. When an infant he was removed
to Madistone, Kent, his mothers native town, and there
he resided until 1825, when he emigratedwith his father
to the United States, landing in New York, November 7, 1825.
While Mr. Knight,senior, settled in Wayne County, Joel went
to Canandaigua, Ontario County, in the same State,where
he resided till April 1831, during which time he learned
the hatters trade, and from that date until the spring
of 1834, moved about making himself acquainted with his
adopted country and British America. At that time he proceeded
to Boston and commenced the study ofmedicine, supporting
himself meanwhile by working at his trade, and September
18, 1834, wasmarried to Amelia, daughter of Adam Stewart
of that city. Mr. Knight continued his medical studies in
Boston until March, 1837, when, with his wife and five-month
child, he moved to Iowa, then forming a part of Wisconsin,
and there resided sixteen years, working hard to rear andeducate
his family. Mr. Knight finding, however, the long and severe
winters, the changeable weather and prevailing ailments
against the benefit of his familys and his own health,determined
to seek a more genial on the other side of the continent.
He chose Oregon, then almost a terra incognita, and on April
9, 1853, set out to cross the plains. On September 13, ofthe
same year he arrived on the west side of the Cascade Mountains,
and on the 18th, ere thejourney had been completed, his
wife added another to the number of his family. On October
25,1853, Mr. Knight purchased a claim in Clark County, W.T.,
and there he died May 20, 1867. Dr.Knight represented at
different times the people of Clark County in the territorial
legislature, andin that capacity, as well as in all the
relations of life, exhibited an integrity of purpose and
conduct, and a devotion to his convictions worthy of all
imitation. He left behind him a memory yet cherished by
those who knew him, and an unspotted character well maintained
by hischildren. Dr. and Mrs, Knight had nine children, viz.:
1. Plutarch Stewart Knight was born in Massachusetts October
21, 1836; taken to Lucas County,Iowa, when six months old.
He was educated at Willamette University; studied law and
was admitted to the bar in 1863; edited the Oregon Statesman
in 1863-64; he was pastor of the Congregational Church at
Oregon City the two years. His pastorate of the Congregational
Church at Salem began in 1867 and lasted until 1885. That
year he resigned to give his entiretime to the deaf and
dumb school at Salem, which he established in 1870, and
maintained for several years. Finally it was taken over
by the State, and is now known as the Oregon State
School for the Deaf. After his connection with that
work was severed, he resumed his ministerial work, as a
home missionary, and organized a number of missionary stations;
and finally one of them in the eastern part of Salem developed
into a well-organized church and isnow known as the Knight
Memorial Church. He died in Salem, January 29, 1915.
2. Seneca Knight, born in Iowa, 1838; died, 1873. Farmer
and stock raiser.
3. Frances Knight (Mrs. Nathan Pearcy), born in Iowa, 1840;
died in Portland, Oregon, 1925. Teacher and home maker.
4. Jefferson Knight, born in Iowa, 1842; drowned in the
Columbia River near Knight farm, 1867.Farmer and stock raiser.
5. Lucy Knight (Mrs. J.J. Wintler), born in Iowa, 1845;
died in 1877. Home maker.
6. Almira Knight (Mrs. W.B. Patterson), born Iowa, 1848.
Home maker.
7. Chatfield Knight, born in Iowa, 1851. Carpenter and horticulturist.
8. Wilson C. Knight, born near Trout